Cusco Travel

Many hopeful travelers have recently learned that Inca Trail permits are now sold out for the entire 2010 summer; so the most obvious alternative is the Salkantay Trek.  But once you start looking into all the Salkantay treks, it’s kind of tricky to suss out the differences between each option.  Our handy guide below will answer all your burning questions about the Salkantay trek.

Salkantay picture taking

SALKANTAY TREK (what the heck is it?)

This is the most popular alternative to the traditional Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu.  Of course, no trek other than the Inca Trail will let you hike directly into Machu Picchu.  This trek, however, gets you pretty darn close so it’s a good runner up.  Basically, you’re going to be hiking around, but not summiting, the Salkantay peak (a gorgeous, snow-topped behemoth that reaches 20,574 ft) and winding up in Aguas Calientes, the small town just outside Machu Picchu.  The Salkanty peak is located in the Cordillera Vilcanota, a prominent mountain range in the Andes; it is northwest of Cusco and south of Machu Picchu.  It’s considered a moderately difficult trek, especially because of the entire area’s formidable altitude, and some say it’s a bit more challenging than the Inca Trail.  There are some variations which make the trek as difficult or long as you like, which you can read about below.  No matter how long the trek, most trips start at or near the small town Mollepata.

OPTIONS

4-Day Trek: This route skirts along the west side of the Salkantay peak for a few days and over the Salkanty pass (at 15,091 ft).   You hike to the small town of La Playa, where a bus takes you to Santa Teresa and you hike to Hidroelectrica.  From there, you either take a train or continue walking to Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu.  This trek is often called the 5-day trip because of an extra day to get to and tour Machu Picchu.  You do not need an Inca Trail permit to do this trek.  Read about this version of the Salkantay Trek here: Apu Salkantay Trek (see “Even more options” below as well).

6-Day Trek: The 6-day trek is also a non-permitted trek, and splits from the classic Salkantay trek above at La Playa (before Hidroelectica and Santa Teresa at the end).   Instead, the 6-day trek includes an extra two days to trek over the Llactapata pass which feature Inca Ruins, before arriving directly in Aguas Calientes.  This lovely extension features hiking through Llucmabamba, visiting some Inca ruins and an awesome view of Machu Picchu from a vantage point few reach.  To find out more about the 6-day trek (7-day trip in total if you include Machu Picchu), please click on the following link: Machu Picchu Lodge-to-Lodge Trek.

7-Day Trek: This is usually called the “Salkantay and Inca Trail Trek” or the “Mollepata route of the Inca Trail.”  It is a combination between the  Salkantay and Inca Trail.  You’ll follow the Salkantay trail the first four days of the trek, then from days 5 through 7, you’ll be on the traditional Inca Trail.  Because you’re on the Inca Trail for part of the trek, you do need the Inca Trail permits.   To learn more about this trek, please visit the following link: Mt. Salkantay & Inca Trail Trek

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Even More Options!

Of course, there are variations from those main routes as well.  For instance the Backcountry Trek does not begin the trek at Mollepata, but a bit further on, which allows travelers to take the hike from Llucmabamba over to Hidroelectrica and visit Machu Picchu (all within 5 days).  Another variation is the Salkantay – Chillca route, which splits from the main Salkantay route to cross over into the Sacred Valley and visit Machu Picchu (again, within 5 days).

Once you figure out how much time you have, and how remote you want your hike to be, the Salkantay trek options make more sense.  No matter which route you take, this is an exciting and accessible trek for anyone looking for an alternative to the traditional Inca Trail.

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Train service should return to normal between Cusco and Machu Picchu on July 1, 2010.

It appears the repairs to the train tracks from Cusco to Ollantaytambo are nearly finished, allowing train service to resume from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) on July 1, 2010.  The train tracks were damaged due to severe flooding caused by extra heavy rains in January.

The damaged tracks prevented trains from reaching Aguas Calientes for the months of February and March, forcing the closure of Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail (closed every February anyway) for those months.  Repairs to the tracks were begun immediately, and the track from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes was re-opened April 1 to allow visitors to visit Machu Picchu again.

The track from Cusco to Ollantaytambo was still unpassable, however, forcing travelers from Cusco to travel by bus to Ollantaytambo, where they were able to catch the train for the rest of the journey.  Additionally, many of the train cars were trapped in Cusco, and were not usable. This limited the number of seats and the amount of cargo on the route Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu.  Train schedules were very difficult to coordinate, and travelers were only allowed 5 kg (11 pounds) of luggage in a daypack no larger than 20 liters.  This posed a problem for many travelers who were spending several days at Machu Picchu, or who were coming off an Inca Trail trek.

Additionally, the Hiram Bingham train cars were all stuck in Cusco, forcing Hiram Bingham service to be canceled until the tracks could be repaired.

Now, with the track re-opening all the way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, travel will hopefully return to normal.  Travelers will no longer have to take the bus to Ollantaytambo in order to catch the train to Machu Picchu, and the severe luggage restrictions should be lifted.  Additionally, we expect the Hiram Bingham train to return to service in July.

We will update this blog as we receive more news.

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Beautiful day in Cusco

by Kate French on June 18, 2010

Most people come back from Peru wishing they had spent more time in the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, and I definitely agree with them.  Before any trek, it’s very important to acclimatize to the altitude, but loads of travelers worry that they’ll be bored by having two relatively unscheduled days in Cusco.  However, it’s probably one of the most lovely cities in South America, so don’t fret if you have a few days to chill before rushing up to Machu Picchu.  For proof, check out some photos I’ve recently snapped while wandering the streets of Cusco.

Traditional Bear Costumes

Traditional Bear Costumes

Traditional dress Cusco

Waiting for the parade to start

Waiting for the parade to start

Cathedral in Plaza de Armas

Cathedral in Plaza de Armas

Cusco conversation

Cusco overlook

Cusco overlook

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Machu Picchu has been receiving its steady flow of travelers successfully since April – after January’s heavy rains. However, getting to the ruins involves bussing sections of the journey that used to be by train.

FETRANSA, the rail company in charge of the train system, is working on the restoration of the railway that connects Machu Picchu to Cusco. It is estimated that this section should be completed by June 30th. At this time, the train service to Machu Picchu will be back on track – operating as it did before the massive floods!

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Wow, more bad news out of Peru as heavy rains returned a few days ago causing flooding and landslides in the Sacred Valley.  Most recently affected is Pisaq, where floods and landslides have taken several lives and damaged many homes.

Currently the road from Cusco to Pisaq is blocked by rocks and mud and is impassable. So, for now, access to this region is not possible, and the Sacred Valley can’t be visited. Hopefully the rains will stop and the roads will be repaired soon.  We send our best wishes to the people of the Sacred Valley, and hope there is no more flooding there.

More to come as we learn more details.

http://www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/db900SID/VVOS-837QUW?OpenDocument

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Floods in Machu Picchu, earthquakes in Chile – want to know the best way help out… don’t change your travel plans.

Beyond the eye of environmental wreckage, these natural disasters can wreak havoc on regional and even national economies as tourism often plays a critical role in sustaining economic development. Just the other day, speaking with one of Detour’s partners in Cusco, we were told that Cusco is as quiet as they have ever seen it. With all the local businesses in Cusco that rely on the steady-flow of visitors Machu Picchu brings, the floods and temporary shut-down of Machu Picchu have seriously stunted the economic viability of the Cusco region.

A recent article in the Peruvian Times paints a stark picture of just how destructive these floods have been for Peru’s national economy. Damages from the flood are estimated to cost 800 million to 1 billion soles (about $280 million – $340 million) to repair. On top of this, the country’s tourism industry is losing a million dollars a day due to travel cancellations. Being that “tourism is one of Peru’s largest sources of revenue and Machu Picchu its main attraction”, the country has invested everything it can to speed the recovery process and re-open Machu Picchu.

And in Chile, the international exposure of the quake, which naturally zoomed in on the worst effected areas – mainly that of Concepcion and the Bio Bio Region about 320 miles south of Santiago – can be confusing to those on the outside. How much of Chile is still accessible?

Chile’s main tourist attractions are by and large intact. In fact, some of our own clients arrived in Chile yesterday for a Patagonia trek. Aside from some delays at the Santiago Airport and a few areas in Chile’s wine country, travelers shouldn’t expect to experience many setbacks. Yet, in browsing the internet I found a blog on a wine touring site expressing concern about the impact this disaster will have on the wine tourism industry for 2010. And, as in Peru, they acknowledged the importance of tourism in their country

Tourism over the last few years has been a great way for normal Chileans to make a living, so i would encourage people to come and enjoy great people, food and wine, while supporting Chile’s fastest growing industry.

Greg, the owner and founder of Detour, recently recalled his time as a river guide in Chile, remarking that him and his fellow guides were treated like royalty, stating that were they back in the states they wouldn’t even have been able to get into some of the places they stayed. So while, we may not value a lot of the tourism jobs offered in the U.S. this is very different in other countries where tourism plays a more substantial role. A good guide can make as much as, say, a doctor in the country would. And don’t quote me on that, but you get the point. They do very well for themselves.

For this reason, calamities like the floods of Machu Picchu and the tourist dry spells they create can impact the livelihoods of the local people longer than the initial blow of the disaster. So in all honest, continuing to travel after a disaster strikes, is one of the best ways to put your dollar to work.

Click here for great alternatives to Machu Picchu.

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Best price for a Peru trek

by Kate French on February 26, 2010

Before I reveal the best price for a Peru trek, I need to explain a concept I’ve been mulling over recently.  When we think of the “best” rate or price for something, are we actually thinking about the lowest price?  But maybe those words shouldn’t be interchangable, especially when we’re talking about something we really want to work well.

When people ask me for the best price on a four day trek in Peru, I usually say it’s about $500 per person- I consider this the lowest cost for a decent trip.  This would be like a last-minute sale.  And at this price you’re paying for the basics, but you can upgrade a bit (like getting a private departure or hiking on your ideal dates).

However, reading through travel blogs and forums, you’ll find loads of people bragging about rock bottom prices for their treks.  This week I came across some surprising readers’ comments on the New York Times travel section.  In response to an article about the places to see in Peru, someone suggested doing the 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu because “[it's the] best $150 you’ll ever spend.”

Sounds like a great price at first, but not once you break it down.  A five-day trek at $150 means you’re spending $30 a day.  That certainly wouldn’t pay for three decent meals a day, entrance to Machu Picchu, and a living wage for your guide or porters.  In fact, that probably wouldn’t pay for a mule and a guide.  Not to mention that it definitely wouldn’t cover your transportation back to Cusco or to Machu Picchu at the end of your trek.  Wow.  Sounds like an awesome trip.

Think about it like this:  If someone offered you a Ferrari for $20, you’d probably wonder if the car used to be a meth lab or if it was stolen or if it would just fall apart in 5 minutes.  Because when it comes to a car, you’d want it to be reliable, legal and safe, and that comes at a certain cost.  So when we think about booking a trip, we should probably apply the same logic.  You especially want a trek to be well organized, safe, and fun.

I believe that you can save money in all sorts of ways when you’re traveling.  Eating delicious street food or sleeping in a simple hostel are excellent ways to save dollars.  But your trek?  I have friends who went on cheap treks where they ran out of food or the guides had no emergency medical kit.  Now I’m all for looking around for deals and comparing prices, but it’s smart to know what prices are too good to be true.

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Workers repairing the track to Machu Picchu.

Workers repairing the track to Machu Picchu.

FETRANSA, the company in charge of repairing the train tracks from Pisacucho to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes), issued a very positive statement this morning that the repair work is going very well, and the work could be completed BEFORE April 1!

This report comes from our Peru partners Andean Adventures, Inkanatura Travel, and Metropolitan Touring.  Inkanatura points out that although work is ahead of schedule, it is still dependent on weather, and delays could occur. They suggest not planning to visit Machu Picchu until after April 7.  I feel even that is cutting it a bit close, and suggest postponing your trip until May or later to be safe.

The train track has already been repaired from kilometer 82, in Piscacucho, to kilometer 90.  The track was moved several meters towards the hill in some stretches and the embankment has been repaired and gabion and stone walls are being built. Only 10 kilometers of track still need to be repaired so that the stretch Aguas Calientes (kilometer 110) – Piscacucho (kilometer 82) is ready.  If good weather continues, this could be completed sooner than expected.

Once this section is repaired, tourists will once again be able to travel to Machu Picchu from Pisacucho. This would involve traveling by bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, then by bus to Pisacucho (50 minutes), before boarding the train for the 70-80 minute train ride to the town below Machu Picchu.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu will not reopen until the train service is operational again, so the Inca Trail is closed for now and permits are not being sold for March trek dates.

Metropolitan Touring also reports that Peru Rail is having trouble structuring the Hiram Bingham – Vistadome hybrid service, and this service is now unlikely to operate. The Hiram Bingham cars are stuck in Cusco, and can’t get to Pisacucho to operate on the route to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes). Peru Rail had said they might be able to offer the Hiram Bingham service to Machu Picchu using the Vistadome cars, but this now seems unlikely. The Hiram Bingham train won’t be able to operate until the tracks between Pisacucho and Ollantaytambo are repaired, sometime around the first of June.  So, travelers should instead plan to use the Vistadome or Backpacker trains until June.

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Repairing the railroad to Machu Picchu at Km 109.5

Repairing the railroad to Machu Picchu at Km 109.5

We haven’t received a lot of news about Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail this week, but the most recent reports are that the Peruvian Minister of Transportation, Mr. Enrique Cornejo, has confirmed that train service to Aguas Calientes / Machu Picchu will resume April 1.  Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail will only reopen when the train service is operational, so they remain closed until April 1 (or whenever the train is ready).

The train will only run from Pisacucho at Km 82 to Aguas Calientes, as the track from Ollantaytambo to Pisacucho won’t be repaired until about June 1.

The route to Machu Picchu will be:

Cusco – Olantaytambo by bus (90 minutes)
Continue by bus on to Piscacucho, (50 minutes)
Board the train to Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu (70-80 minutes)

By June 1, or sometime in early June, the tracks between Ollantaytambo and Pisacucho should be repaired and train journeys from Cusco to Machu Picchu will resume operations.

One issue is that the Hiram Bingham train cars were in Cusco when the track was damaged, and they are trapped there until the railroad is repaired between Ollanataytambo and Pisacucho.  Thus, the Hiram Bingham train won’t operate until June. In the meantime, a temporary Hiram Bingham/Vistadome train will run with some of the services and features of the Hiram Bingham train, but using the Vistadome cars.

Repairs at Km 106 on the railway to Machu Picchu

Repairs at Km 106 on the railway to Machu Picchu

Leveling the railroad bed at Km 109.8, on the way to Machu Picchu

Leveling the railroad bed at Km 109.8, on the way to Machu Picchu

The much touted emergency “back” route to Machu Picchu, via road to Santa Maria, Santa Teresa, and the hydroelectric station, then by train to Aguas Calientes, is also not open at this time. The railroad to the hydro station has been repaired, but the road is still out somewhere along the way to the hydro station.  Work is ongoing, but won’t be done for at least a few weeks.  Even when completed, it appears that Machu Picchu won’t be re-opened until April 1 at the earliest.  This back route is a very rough road that takes at least 7 hours, so it is not suitable for most people wanting to visit Machu Picchu.

Finally, although there were a number of rumors flying about that helicopters would be allowed to transport tourists to and from Machu Picchu, this is not true. The National Institute of Culture (INC) of Peru has made it very clear that tourist visits to Machu Picchu by helicopter are not authorized.  In a press release in early February the Peruvian agency declined the request of the Regional Directorate of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Cusco (DRCETC) to allow the use of  helicopters for tourism to Machu Picchu.  “The only helicopter operations that have been approved and remain in place are for the attention and care supply town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu), as a result of the emergency caused by natural phenomena,” the statement said.

The DRCETC had asked the INC to authorize a small flow of tourists to the Inca monument through helicopter flights (about 210 visitors per day), but the INC opposed this proposal considering that it does not ensure the evacuation of travelers by alternate routes in case of rough weather.  “We are aware of the detriment in the income level that these natural events have caused in the area, but we must not forget that our primary responsibility is to safeguard the life and physical integrity of visitors,” the statement added.

So, there you have it. Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed until April 1, or whevenever the train service is able to operate again.

Keep in mind, Peru is still very worth visiting even without a trip to Machu Picchu. Cusco and the Sacred Valley are filled with Inca ruins, history, and culture, and there is plenty to see and enjoy in the area.

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Here is an update on how you can help Peru flooding victims in Peru from the South American Explorers Club:

HOW TO HELP – Many of you have asked how you could help the victims of the devasting floods and mudslides that have hit Cusco, the Sacred Valley and areas around Machu Picchu. Here is a short list of non-profit organizations that are working directly with the affected communities and can accept donations of money, clothing, food, etc. They may have needs for volunteers, but please contact them directly prior to heading out to these areas:

Living Heart Foundation – Ollantaytambo
www.livingheartperu.org/help.htm
The devastation to families living in adobe houses near the river has meant they they have lost everything…The most important thing is of course money. The main concern of Living Heart is also being able to maintain the help to the 400 mal nourished children in remote areas where we have maintained help during the past 3 years. Volunteers would need to speak Spanish and/or Quechua to be able to help out.

DESEA Foundation and Kusikawsay School
www.deseaperu.org
www.kusikawsay.org
DESEA work in various sustainable projects in the SV, and the Kusikawsay School building at a cultural centre in Taray (near Pisac, where the bridge washed out). was severely damaged by flooding and erosion – and they’re now appealing for additional support to help with the reconstruction.

Wayki Trek
www.waykitrek.net
A trekking agency owned and operated by local community members, Wayki have been bringing donations of food, water, clothing and other items to Anta and other remote villages in the SV.

Cusco Municipality
For those already in Cusco, the municipal government and other organizations have had collection points up in the Plaza de Armas for dropping off food, water and clothing.

SAE Clubhouse
– you can also bring your donations to the clubhouse and we will make sure to get them into the hands of one of the above organizations.

-> The lastest update will be available here
www.saexplorers.org/clubhouses/cusco

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We have just learned from partner Amazonas Explorer that the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC), the agency controlling the Inca Trail,  has informed them that no one will be able to operate treks on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in March of this year due to the recent flooding.

INC will refund all permits purchased for trekking the Inca Trail in March.  As Amazonas points out it will be possible to get to Machu Picchu via the road to Santa Teresa in March, and there are many other excellent trek options available such as the Salcantay or Lares Valley treks.

If you have your heart set on trekking the world famous Inca Trail, you better plan your trek for later in the year. Everything should be back to normal by April, and, as always, May is a wonderful month to trek the Inca Trail. It isn’t crowded, everything is green, and the temperatures are warmer than in August or September.

Trekking in the Lares Valley
Trekking in the Lares Valley

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Days of heavy rains in the Cusco and Machu Picchu region of Peru have stranded tourists and caused over 40 landslides.  The railway connecting Machu Picchu to Cusco was blocked by one slide and workers have been busy clearing the debris.  Rivers have also been overflowing, resulting in widespread crop damage.

The Peru government has declared the situation an emergency and began air-lifting travelers from Machu Picchu.  Almost 2,000 tourists and residents were stranded at the ruins and surrounding area.  Five military helicopters are now transporting these stranded people.

Here is the report from local Cusco operator, Andean Adventures:

“For the last two days, two thousand tourists are trapped at Machu Picchu. Some of the stranded travelers are being airlifted to safety by Peruvian military helicopters.

The company that monitors the rail, Perurail, said that that the train operator suspended services Monday and is working to clear rock and mud away from the tracks so that trains could finally continue service soon.  The Tourism Minister, Martin Perez, said that the government may send helicopters (currently four) to evacuate tourists and locals from Machu Picchu Pueblo to the town next to the citadel.

Days of heavy rains have triggered up to 40 landslides in the Cusco area, the bridge crossing the Urubamba River to Pisaj was damaged so currently the only connecting paved road to the Sacred Valley is via Chinchero and Urubamba.

The Cusco authorities are waiting for the end of the rainfall to and re-establish the infrastructure as soon as possible.”

Detour will continue posting news regarding this situation in Peru.

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New Lares Trek 06

If you’re looking for an beautiful and rewarding trek in Peru, we’ve got the perfect answer for you: trekking the Lares Valley.  It’s another alternative trek to the traditional Inca Trail, but it’s not filled with low-quality operators leading massive groups as you’d find on the Apu Salkantay.  We hope to preserve the quality of this trek and region by promoting highly responsible operators, such as InkaNatura and Amazonas Explorer.

You’ll find dramatic views throughout your trek: steep grassy slopes, alpine lakes and the snowy Vilcabamba range in the background.  Furthermore, the valley is home to wonderfully preserved Incan ruins and Incan trails which you’ll be using for part of your trek.

Several villages dot the Lares Valley and their inhabitants live in much the same way as their ancestors here 500 years ago.  Many of these villages offer some of the finest weaving and textiles found anywhere in Peru.  Buying these handicrafts directly from the weaver is an excellent way to ensure locals benefit from your stay.

Check out Amazonas’ Lares Valley Trek, perfect for those who need a flexible and challenging trek: Lares Valley Trek “Peru’s Other Inca Trail”.  As always, Amazonas is doing their part to minimize their impact and help the area:  “We include visits to several local communities with whom Amazonas Explorer are proud to work with as part of their commitment to www.onepercentfortheplanet.org and with whom we have been involved in the replanting of over 55,000 native trees over the past few years.”

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Clouds on the Inca Trail to Machu PIcchu

Clouds on the Inca Trail to Machu PIcchu

Lots of people want to know if they should trek the Inca Trail or an alternate trail near Machu Picchu over the December/January holiday season. After all, this is a time when many of us have time off from work, meaning we can travel without using up all our vacation days.

Unfortunately, this holiday time is also the rainy season in the Cusco / Machu Picchu area of Peru. The rainy season usually starts sometime in November, or early December, and runs through March or even April.  The rain is not consistent every day at the same time, or for a predictable duration, like in some places. It could rain all day, or it might not rain at all on any given day. Usually it doesn’t rain for more than a few hours, as scattered showers, not long downpours, are the norm. January and February are the rainiest months.

Does this mean you shouldn’t trek in Peru over the Christmas/New Years holidays, or other times during the rainy season?  The answer is, it depends!

First, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is closed for all of February every year, so if you want to trek that trail you’ve got to do it at another time of year.

Trekking during the rainy season means you will get wet, and you will get muddy.  Sometimes your views won’t be too impressive, as clouds or mist will obscure the view.

Of course, it can rain at any time of the year in this region, not just the rainy season, so trekking at another time doesn’t guarantee a dry trip or clear skies.  And, traveling in the rainy season almost guarantees you will miss most of the crowds that flock to the area in June, July, August, and September.  Plus, average temperatures are a bit warmer at this time of year than in August and September, when temperatures regularly drop below zero on high altitude trekking routes.

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Inca Trail Tips from Alex Lindell,  traveler on a May/June 2006 Peru trip with Amazonas Explorer.

On the Inca Trail

On the Inca Trail

Trekking Packing List and Tips
In your day pack, you should carry your camera (and all accessories), sunglasses, water bottle or camelback, sunscreen, bug spray, pocketknife, blister stuff, baby wipes, sunhat, fleece or sweater, extra socks, and an extra t-shirt.  If you want a trekking pole, bring a proper pole with you – the bamboo things they sell at the trailhead are more of a hassle than an asset.  At the top of every pass you will be wet with sweat and the passes are windy and cold.  You should switch into your dry t-shirt and fleece.  Splay the wet t-shirt over the back of your pack so it will dry before the next pass.  Although, we had only perfect weather, you should have a raincoat and waterproof cover for your pack just in case.  I wore shorts the whole time, but you may want a pair of trekking pants as well if it is colder.

I suggest wearing light colors.  There were relatively few bugs on the trail, but they were attracted to dark colors like black and blue.

For the porter carried items you should bring a few extra t-shirts, towel (a backpacking towel is recommended as my traditional towel never actually dried after the first day), pants, down jacket, long underwear, good sleeping bag, warm hat, after-trek shoes (I had sandals and that was a mistake – I suggest lightweight slip-ons of some sort), plenty of hiking socks and underwear, baby wipes (absolutely critical), limited toiletries (Amazonas provided soap so really a toothbrush and toothpaste is all I needed – people with hair may want a brush), and cash ($200-250 was plenty).  We also had a backgammon set we brought along which was used often.  I brought a book and never opened it.  Even if you don’t smoke, most of the porters will appreciate cigarettes.

Get some dried cocoa leaves and chew them on the uphill days.  They seemed to work wonders.

Finally, get in good shape.  The first people to arrive at camp each night get the first choice of tent.  However, this is actually not a requirement, as the pace is quite slow.  The slow pace is a necessity to allow the porters time to get ahead of you and set up prior to your arrival.  For reference, we did the trail in three and half days and the record for a porter running the same trail (without a load) is three and three quarters hours.

Food & Water on the Trek
The food was the best backpacking food I have ever had.  Every meal was hot.  In addition, at the beginning of each day they provided us with a bag of snacks.  They catered to specific dietary requirements ranging from me (anti-veggie – no corn, eggs, or mushrooms) to the full on vegetarians.  Do not expect gourmet food as all the food is carried on someone’s back, but I am super picky and this was my primary concern.  I was pleasantly surprised with the quality.

Every morning and after every lunch, Amazonas provided drinking water for filing up water bottles.  I did not need the purification tablets.

Other Suggestions
I recommend planning your activities in advance of arrival, way in advance if you want to do the traditional Inca Trail.  There is no need to waste time while on vacation planning your activities.

Don’t drink, or even put to your lips, any water that is not out of a bottle.  If they say the ice is from purified water, drink it at your own risk – I am pretty sure I sold my soul to the devil while hugging my porcelain friend at Machu Picchu.

Learn at least a little Spanish, it will go a long way.  Be patient, do not expect U.S. type service in South America, because you will be disappointed.  Try to avoid doing any more damage to our reputation – George Bush and his “foreign policy” have taken care of that for at least the next three generations.

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For one reason or another, you’re not hiking THE Inca Trail to Machu Picchu; maybe the permits sold out, your travel dates aren’t flexible enough, or you want to do something a little more interesting. While the good news is that there are a lot of options for alternative treks in the area, that’s also the bad news because it can be so tough to make a decision on the right trek. Here are four choices that should help you figure out which trip is best designed for you.

APU SALKANTAY

The Apu Salkantay trek is the most popular alternative trek to the Inca Trail trek. Mt. Salkantay was one of the most sacred mountains to the Incas and this trek takes you up close to the celebrated peak. Great for getting into the heart of the Andes, witnessing dramatic landscapes, and reaching the highest altitude of all the Machu Picchu treks. This is a moderately difficult trek in which you’ll hike for three to six hours a day. Most treks will include a one-day visit to Machu Picchu after the hiking.

Detour Picks:
http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Apu_Salkantay_Trek_16256.html

This is a slightly more “upscale” operator for the same trek.
http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Backcountry_Trek_to_Machu_Picchu_16380.html

CHOQUEQUIRAO

Perched on a saddle between stunning Andean peaks, Choquequirao (or “Machu Picchu’s Sacred Sister”) is the type of trip your guides really want to do. The ruins are accessible only by foot which limits traffic and enhances the mystique of this amazing site. You’ll most likely find yourself the only tourists exploring the vast complex of ruins and camping beside the site. It’s very easy, and recommended, to add a one or two-day visit to Machu Picchu after the Choquequirao trek. This is a fairly difficult trek mostly due to the elevation gain and stairs (much like the traditional Inca Trail) and you’ll be hiking about 7 hours each trekking day:

Detour Pick:
http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Choquequirau__the_Cradle_of_the_Gods_16364.html

LARES VALLEY TREK (or the “Weaver’s Way” trek)

The Lares Valley joins up with the Sacred Valley, but is not overrun with tourists rushing through on one-day trips by bus. Any trek in the Lares Valley will take you through a number of small, traditional weaving communities whose textiles are reknowned for their quality and beauty. The trek also features sweeping views of the Vilcanota mountain range, a dip in the Lares hotsprings and a visit to the well-preserved Inca ruins of Pumamarca. Most treks in the area are moderately difficult with the tougher ones considered on par with the traditional Inca Trail (the trek even follows an ancient Inca Trail for much of the hiking). One of the best options is one that combines a one-day visit to Machu Picchu after the trek.

Detour Pick:
http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Lares_Valley_Trek__Peru_s_Other_Inca_Trail__16247.html

MACHU PICCHU AND SACRED VALLEY TREKKING

This is a fairly easy trek that takes you through the most popular villages and ruins in the Sacred Valley. Some of these stops include Ollantaytambo, Pisaq, and Chinceros. This combination of trekking, Sacred Valley highlights, and a visit to Machu Picchu makes for a classic Peru experience. Staying in local lodges ensures a more comfortable trip than a typical camping trek in the area. If you choose a private departure, your guide can customize a bit of the hiking for you to make it more challenging if you wish. Hikes last for a couple hours at a time on fairly unchallenging terrain:

Detour Pick:
http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Machu_Picchu_and_Sacred_Valley_Trekking_16388.html

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Want to get off the beaten-path in Peru? Don’t worry, you can always squeeze in a quick visit to Machu Picchu (really, it can be done in just a day). When there’s so much to see in Peru, you’ll wonder why most people don’t venture stray far from the Inca Trail. Here are five trips to get you dreaming . . .

1. Choquequirao- Perched on a saddle between stunning Andean peaks, Choquequirao (or “Machu Picchu’s Sacred Sister”) is the type of trip your guides really want to do. The ruins are accessible only by foot which limits traffic and enhances the mystique of this amazing site. You’ll most likely find yourself the only tourists exploring the vast complex of ruins and camping beside the site (can’t do that at Machu Picchu).

2. Cordillera Blanca / Huarez- Where true trekkers get their kicks in Peru. The breathtaking peaks are reminiscent of the Himalayas. Mountaineers and inexperienced trekkers can both find a variety of challenges.

3. Manu- This national park boasts the highest bird, mammal and plant diversity of any park on earth. A spot for people who can forgo a few comforts for one the finest rainforest experiences anywhere.


4. Apurimac River- Considered one of the world’s top ten rafting rivers, the Apurimac cuts through canyon walls twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and offers exciting rapids. A great choice for a shorter rafting trip.

5. Kuelap and Chachapoyas – Kuelap is just one of the many astounding archaeological testaments to a mysterious pre-Incan civilization in northern Peru. The site’s vine draped, towering walls rival the grandeur of even Machu Picchu. The surounding area is dotted with charming Andean towns like Chachapoyas and is criss-crossed by ancient footpaths you can still trek today.

Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas Peru Travel and Tours by Inkanatura Travel

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There is still space available at the holidays on a classic Peruvian multisport adventure, The Multi-Activity Peru, December 21-January 3!

The Multi-Activity Peru is an awesome 14-day all inclusive trip that includes horseback riding around the ruins near Cusco, whitewater rafting on the Urubamba in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, mountain biking through the Saltpans of Maras, a 5-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek, and 3 days in the Amazon Rainforest. The trip can also be shortened to 12 days by skipping the jungle portion.

The former Inca Capital and Spanish Colonial city of Cusco is our base for this great multisport adventure. Cusco is a wonderful place full of culture, history, good restaurants and fun nightlife. From Cusco, explore nearby ruins on horseback, raft the fun Class III-IV rapids of the upper Urubamba river, visit the Pisac artisan market, descend into the Sacred Valley of the Incas by mountain bike, and hike the famous Inca Trail to the lost city of the Incas, Machu Picchu. A rest day in Cusco is followed by a short flight to an Amazonian jungle lodge to enjoy hikes, canoe rides and rainforest exploration before returning to Lima.

$2735 per person (optional single supplement $330). www.detourdestinations.com

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Inca Trail trekking permits have sold out incredibly quickly this year, and the trek is now sold out through the end of August. Permits are available on many start dates in September, but permit availability is limited until around September 19. October, November, and December still have good availability, except for the odd day in October. Click here to view more information on permit availability: Inca Trail Trek Permit Availability

What does this mean if you are heading to Peru this travel season? If you haven’t already booked an Inca Trail trek, you won’t be able to get a permit for the famous hike to Machu Picchu. Permits are issued to actual trekkers and are linked to their passport numbers, so once permits are sold out no outfitter can get you a permit for those dates. If you really want to trek the Inca Trail, there are still many permits available for Oct-Dec, or postpone your trip to next year and purchase it now.

Better yet, go ahead and go to Peru. There a number of fantastic alternative treks that go on Inca trails in the area, and all can be combined with a visit to Machu Picchu. All of these treks are less crowded than the Inca Trail, and local guides and others in the know claim many of them are much better treks than the famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. I have done the Inca Trail a few times, and while I enjoy it very much, I personally would prefer one of these off-the-beaten-path trips. They offer fantastic scenery, interesting culture, and Inca ruins, all far from the crowds of the Inca Trail itself.

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See the latest on Inca Trail Permit availability here: Inca Trail Permits
Inca Trail trekking permits are selling exceptionally fast this year. Permits are already sold out through the middle of August, with the first permits available for trips starting on August 23. September and October have plenty of permits available, so if you really want to trek on the Inca Trail you should plan for a fall trip at this time.

Alternatively, there are a number of fantastic treks on non-permitted Inca Trails that offer solitude, Andean scenery, culture, and Inca and pre-Inca ruins that don’t require Inca Trail permits, and are available all summer long. Some of these treks end at or near Machu Picchu, and all can be combined with a visit to Machu Picchu, so don’t postpone your Peru trip just because Inca Trail permits are sold out. Local trekking guides and well-traveled trekkers often feel these other trails are actually more interesting than the famous “Inca Trail.” Check out these treks here:

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