If you’re going to spend the money and time it takes to get to the Galapagos Islands - you probably want to spend some effort finding the right tour for you. Having just spent two weeks in the Galapagos I got to explore firsthand the differences between the classic yacht-based tour and the increasingly popular island-hopping tours.
And while, yes, they share the same destination – the experience of the islands was quite different.
Sun deck at sunrise - M/Y Letty
Oddly enough, the perks of one tend to be the pitfalls of the other. For instance, a cruise allows you to cover a lot of distance. Therefore, you have the opportunity to see more wildlife, more islands, and more sea-life. This makes for an amazing wildlife experience, but is not the same as total relaxation at a beach hotel. I felt queasy at times on the boat. Land-based tours, on the other hand, are very relaxing and comfortable, at the expense of seeing some of the wildlife.
On my cruise aboard the
Letty, we saw tons of frigate birds, fields of males all puffed red ogling the females flying by and lots of Boobies – footed red and blue – mating, showing each other sticks, fighting… All within arms reach! On the boat we came across a pod of 30-50 dolphins, saw whales off in the distance, and (though extremely rare) had a whale shark swim right underneath us! The experience was one I’ll never forget…
But being on a boat isn’t easy. The National Park has set strict time-lines that the boats – all boats – must follow. You’re going nonstop and, at times, it can feel a bit like being on a high school field trip (a very awesome field trip) with the constant activity, lines, and lots of people in limited space (the boat). And while space wasn’t really that big of an issue, you are forced to be social at meals every day, along with sharing close quarters with your travel mates.
Aventura Lodge - Santa Cruz Island
A land-based tour, like my
Red Mangrove Darwin’s Triangle trip, allows for tons of sprawl space, privacy, and relaxation. You can choose to dine “just the two of us” or with your tour group. You have the opportunity to experience more of the cultural-side of the Galapagos. You can check out a local restaurant for lunch and you have the option for a little nightlife if you so please. There’s no dealing with feeling a bit queasy due to seasickness, and, in general, you’re more comfortable. These tours feel more like a vacation, and you can plan some relaxation days around your excursion days.
On the flip-side, while you still get to see wildlife it is not quite to the same extent. You’ll for sure see sea lions and piles of marine iguanas and the giant tortoises, but no fields of frigates. And the boobies fly by, but they don’t stop by. A lot of the crazy wildlife we’ve come to think of as the Galapagos happens on some of the further out islands. Islands that you’re only going to get to if you go with a yacht-based tour.
Choosing the right trip really means thinking about why you want to go to the Galapagos. If you’re going for the wildlife, and to see the variation within species on the different islands, I’d choose a yacht trip. But if your idea of vacation is a mix of seeing some wildlife and relaxing in a beach hotel, you might prefer a land-based trip. Either way, it’s hard not to enjoy yourself, and you’ll be glad you visited the Galapagos Islands!
A Ceviche Sampler.
I have to admit something embarrassing. The first time I journeyed to Latin America (to Peru specifically), I expected Peruvian cuisine to be more or less just like Mexican food. It didn’t occur to me that there are probably massive cultural, agricultural and cuisine differences, given that Lima and Mexico City are 2,600 miles apart. So I was completely unprepared for the extremely novel, exciting, and bizarre foods that awaited me. In order to save you that embarassment, I have listed a small sample of (mostly) uniquely Peruvian food you should expect to encounter while trekking through the Andes or sitting on a beach.
1. Ceviche: Probably my favorite of all Peruvian dishes. Raw fish, marinated in fresh lime juice and spices.
2. Cuy: A much more appetizing name than fried guinea pig. They do the entire thing, stuffed, leaving the head and little claws. A true Andean classic and surprisingly tasty.
3. Lomo Saltado: Beef tenderloin sauteed with onions, tomatoes, peppers and spices. Served with the usual french fries and rice. Found everywhere.
4. Chifa: This is Chinese food in Peru and you’ll find tons of Chifa restaurants in every city. It’s more than fried rice, because the dishes have Peruvian flair, definitely worth trying.
5. Pachamanca: Only found in Andean communities, this meal’s preparation is quite unique. A mixture of meat, potatoes, corn, tamales and spices are baked together over a fire and is covered by large stones. The origins of this meal come from pre-Hispanic times, so it’s a true classic.
Plus, I recommend you wash down these dishes with a classic Peruvian beverage.
A tasty Pisco Sour
1. Cusqueña: Each city has it’s own brewery and it’s definitely a matter of community pride. For instance, if someone asks if you prefer “Cusqueña or Arequipeña”, you should always answer that you prefer the beer of the city you’re in. Personally though, I really did like Cusqueña best.
2. Pisco Sour: This classic drink is made with Peruvian brandy (Pisco), raw egg, sugar and key lime juice. Sounds gross, but it’s actually ridiculously tasty. Don’t leave Peru without having one (or 8).
3. Chica: You’ll be lucky to find authentic Chica unless you’re staying with a family living in the countryside. This is a fermeted mixture liquor, sort of like beer or hard apple cider, with a pretty low alcohol content. Tradtionally, it’s fermented by someone moistening the maize in their mouth and adding it to the mixture. Not recommended for squimish travelers, but a must for those seeking an something out of the ordinary.
* Photos courtesy of Wikipedia
Floods in Machu Picchu, earthquakes in Chile – want to know the best way help out… don’t change your travel plans.
Beyond the eye of environmental wreckage, these natural disasters can wreak havoc on regional and even national economies as tourism often plays a critical role in sustaining economic development. Just the other day, speaking with one of Detour’s partners in Cusco, we were told that Cusco is as quiet as they have ever seen it. With all the local businesses in Cusco that rely on the steady-flow of visitors Machu Picchu brings, the floods and temporary shut-down of Machu Picchu have seriously stunted the economic viability of the Cusco region.
A recent article in the Peruvian Times paints a stark picture of just how destructive these floods have been for Peru’s national economy. Damages from the flood are estimated to cost 800 million to 1 billion soles (about $280 million – $340 million) to repair. On top of this, the country’s tourism industry is losing a million dollars a day due to travel cancellations. Being that “tourism is one of Peru’s largest sources of revenue and Machu Picchu its main attraction”, the country has invested everything it can to speed the recovery process and re-open Machu Picchu.
And in Chile, the international exposure of the quake, which naturally zoomed in on the worst effected areas – mainly that of Concepcion and the Bio Bio Region about 320 miles south of Santiago – can be confusing to those on the outside. How much of Chile is still accessible?
Chile’s main tourist attractions are by and large intact. In fact, some of our own clients arrived in Chile yesterday for a Patagonia trek. Aside from some delays at the Santiago Airport and a few areas in Chile’s wine country, travelers shouldn’t expect to experience many setbacks. Yet, in browsing the internet I found a blog on a wine touring site expressing concern about the impact this disaster will have on the wine tourism industry for 2010. And, as in Peru, they acknowledged the importance of tourism in their country
Tourism over the last few years has been a great way for normal Chileans to make a living, so i would encourage people to come and enjoy great people, food and wine, while supporting Chile’s fastest growing industry.
Greg, the owner and founder of Detour, recently recalled his time as a river guide in Chile, remarking that him and his fellow guides were treated like royalty, stating that were they back in the states they wouldn’t even have been able to get into some of the places they stayed. So while, we may not value a lot of the tourism jobs offered in the U.S. this is very different in other countries where tourism plays a more substantial role. A good guide can make as much as, say, a doctor in the country would. And don’t quote me on that, but you get the point. They do very well for themselves.
For this reason, calamities like the floods of Machu Picchu and the tourist dry spells they create can impact the livelihoods of the local people longer than the initial blow of the disaster. So in all honest, continuing to travel after a disaster strikes, is one of the best ways to put your dollar to work.
Click here for great alternatives to Machu Picchu.
Amazonas Explorer débuts two new mountain biking expeditions: Single Track Heaven & Back Roads of the Andes! I recently snagged myself a Rocky Mountain Fusion – my first ever mountain bike. Not the most fancy bike on the market, but definitely the nicest thing I’ve ever owned… a very satisfying check off the “needed gear” list. Ahhh!
After a week of owning my beautiful bike, I find these two beauties from Amazonas. Being that its winter in Montana and the hilly streets of Helena are glazed in ice, I catch myself drifting off to quiet (and snow-free) dirt roads high in the Peruvian Andes.
Lake Titicaca
The Back Roads of the Andes thirteen-day journey starts on the shores of Lake Titicaca and veers north to Cusco on rarely used dirt roads and pack-trails. Visit quaint colonial towns and small mountain villages, stroll through vibrant indigenous markets, explore ancient Incan ruins, even stay the night at an alpaca breeding center. Way off the beaten path, this challenging ride offers sweeping altiplano views with crystal clear streams, vast lakes, cactus forests and out of this world rock formations, as well as, a chance to get to know the local Andean people… whom bikes are the preferred form of transportation!
Alpacas
Ending with a guided tour of Machu Picchu’s famous ruins – one of the new 7 Wonders of the World – and the chance to experience some of Cusco’s happening night-life, this trip offers the perfect combination of Peru’s must-see’s and a fascinating look into some of their unsung treasures.
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By mid-morning and a half a pot of coffee later, visions of their Single Track Heaven trek start creeping in. In similar fashion to the Back Roads tour, this trip still offers classic Peru experiences with an optional visit to infamous Machu Picchu and nights in Cusco. Yet, it offers even the most extreme mountain bike enthusiasts a chance to see the real Peru – off the beaten “Gringo trail” onto some of the best cross country and downhill single track on the planet (so says Amazonas).
Hacienda Marcabamba
Using a converted colonial building in the Sacred Valley – Hacienda Marcabamba – as the base for this nine-day mountain biking dream, you can hunker in for a bit and explore the local area – enjoy locally produced meals, explore rarely visited ruins and artisan markets or mosey on down to the local spa/bar to settle down after all the adrenaline-packed days.
The rides offer a mix of dirt roads, donkey paths, mind-blowing single tracks (largely downhill or flat) and a chance to hone your step jumping on original Inca trails. Take in the World class Mega – Avalanche Downhill course, a true wilderness ride to Huchuy Quosqo, the classic Maras to Moray saltpan ride and the very best of local single track in Cusco itself (plus plenty more). There is something for everyone to enjoy and daily rides will be tailored to the individual skills of the group. A great adventure!
Mega Avalanche Downhill Course
New Organic & Local Menu Items
Ecoventura, operator of the Eric, Letty and Flamingo & Sky Dancer yachts, introduces new, healthier menus with an emphasis on local, organic foods!
Ecoventura’s trained chefs have introduced a healthy, reduced calorie dining menu built around natural and organic foods, and perhaps most importantly - purchased from local island farmers. The new menu has increased its organic options by 12% and nearly 60% of their produce comes from the Galapagos. View the menu.
Most of the fruits and vegetables come from San Cristobal Island, while meat and dairy are supplied from Santa Cruz Island. Only 32% of their food products are shipped from mainland Ecuador and the company strives to annually reduce that percentage. (Consider two years ago that percentage was more than 40%.)
Ecoventura already leads the way in responsible, sustainable travel in the Galapagos. Their support for the local communities and continued environmental stewardship offers the contentious traveler a holistic approach to Galapagos cruising. Here at Detour, we support them whole-heartedly!
Rioting broke out in northern Peru on Friday after two months of fuel and transport blockades, and at least 30 indigenous protesters and 24 police officers have been killed. The indigenous tribes want to force Congress to repeal laws that encourage foreign mining in the rainforest.
According to the BBC (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/8088350.stm): “The violence erupted on Friday after 2,500 Indians – many of them carrying spears and machetes – protested over government plans to drill for gas and oil in what they consider their ancestral lands.”
While the situation remains serious in this region, it is not affecting other regions of Peru and tourism has not been disrupted in any way.
We’ll try to follow up with more information on the issues behind this violence as we learn more.
Puno, Peru is known as the folkloric capitol of the Andes and for good reason. The Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria is celebrated here in style with days of raucous parades, elaborate costumes, and dancing.
Andean Adventures, a local tour operator, was in Puno this year to attend the festivities and photograph this colorful event.
Puno is right on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake, which is dotted with islands. Indigenous people still live on these islands, carrying on ancient traditions of weaving, dress, farming, and agriculture. Lake Titicaca is noted as a top destination to visit in the world, not least because of the amazing cultural highlights. You can find out more about Andean Adventures and their tours here: http://www.detourdestinations.com/provider_info.php?provider=andeanadventures
People often hear the phrase “Adventure Travel” and think, oh, I don’t climb, or ski, or raft. I’m not an adventure traveler. But does adventure travel have to be about activities on a trip? Couldn’t it just mean going off-the-beaten-path, where your trip is much more likely to have interesting and unplanned events occur? Really, which is more adventurous: hiking in the Alps, or traveling by dugout canoe with an indigenous group in the Amazon Basin?
It has been said that a true adventure doesn’t begin until someone loses their luggage. While I don’t think you have to go that far to define “adventure,” I would argue that adventure travel is not so much about the activities or sports pursued, but about a spirit of discovery, a mindset of willingness to experience new and different things. For most people, a trip to South or Central America is an adventure trip, especially when leaving the capital city and getting out into the countryside.
We encourage everyone traveling to be open to the culture and to appreciate the different ways that people live. When I lived in Zambia, Africa, and led trips for American clients, I always stressed that things would go wrong, that time had a different meaning there, and that many things would seem disorganized and out of control. Rather than get upset, I suggested people embrace these differences—breathe them in deeply and enjoy stepping into a different world, even when it causes inconvenience or discomfort.
If you aren’t open to the adventure of travel in the non-European world, you might be better off limiting your trips to the US, Europe, Australia and New Zealand: all offer world-class hiking, skiing, rafting, etc. Go to the developing world to experience a different way of life, as well as different scenery and sights. Sure there is great hiking, rafting, etc, in these places. But pursuit of these activities isn’t enough to justify the trip—you should also be open to the culture and history of these areas. Hiking Peru’s Inca Trail is as much about ruins, history, and traditional culture, as it is about scenery and hiking.
If you want it to be just like home, you probably ought to just stay home! Adventure travel is a state of mind.
Detour is hosting Kambona Ole Tirra Mollel for several slideshows in Montana this week. Tomorrow, Tuesday May 20, Kambona will present at The Trailhead in Missoula (221 E. Front St. Missoula, Montana 59802) at 8 pm. Then, on Wednesday, May 21, he will present in Helena a the Exploration Works (995 Carousel Way Helena MT, 59601) at 6:30 pm. The events are open to the public.
Kambona will discuss trekking on Mt Kilimanjaro and walking and driving safaris in Tanzania. He will also share his perspective on tribal life in Tanzania. Here is the press release about his talks:
“KILIMANJARO THROUGH THE EYES OF A NATIVE MAASAI -
“For those of you who dream of traveling to Africa, this presentation is a fascinating glimpse into the land of Mount Kilimanjaro where there are over a thousand bird species, ecosystems ranging from jungle to desert, and fascinating cultures.
“Senior Tanzanian safari, trekking and climbing guide, Kambona Ole Tirra Mollel, will speak and present a slide show about his experiences as a guide and as a native in this area. Having climbed Kilimanjaro over 100 times, as well as Mount Kenya and Mount Meru, Kambona has a unique and unparalleled view of this fascinating destination.
“Kambona, who is native Maasai and trilingual, is also known for his funny and engaging talks. The accompanying slideshow will be an incredible display of some of the most exotic wildlife and ecology on the planet.Whether you want to learn about mountaineering, safari viewing or Maasai culture, this presentation is sure to inspire wanderlust in everyone.”
We are pretty excited to have Kambona visit us in Helena, and to get him onto a mountain bike to show him some of Helena’s great trails, as he is an avid biker back home in Tanzania.
Travel can be hard on a local culture and environment; but there are ways to lessen our impact on the places we visit. That’s why we want to feature sustainable travel tips from Rainforest Alliance, an internationally renowned, non-profit conservation group. Rainforest Alliance and Detour are working together to promote sustainable travel and help tour operators become certified. There’s also a lot that a traveler can do themselves to lessen their footprint in the host country. These tips from Rainforest Alliance can help travelers make responsible decisions wherever they visit:
Once You Arrive at Your Destination…
At the hotel: Ask about environmental policies and practices. Talk with staff about working conditions. Does the hotel support community projects?
Language: Learn a few words of the local language and use them.
Dress: Read up on local conventions and dress appropriately. In many countries, modest dress is important.
Behavior: Be respectful of local citizens’ privacy. Ask permission before entering sacred places, homes or private land.
Photographs: Be sensitive to when and where you take photos/video of people. Always ask first.
Environment: Respect the natural environment. Never touch or harass animals. Always follow designated trails. Support conservation by paying entrance fees to parks and protected sites.
Animal products: Never purchase crafts, clothing, furniture or other products that are derived from members of protected or endangered animal species.
Pay a fair price: Don’t engage in overly aggressive bargaining for souvenirs. Don’t short-change on tips for services.
Buy local: Choose locally owned lodges, hotels and B & Bs. Use local buses, car rental agencies and airlines. Eat in local restaurants, shop in local markets and attend local events. That way money spent in the community stays in the community.
Hire local guides: Enrich your experience and support the local economy. Ask guides if they are licensed and live locally. Are they recommended by tour operators?
Detour, The Adventure Travel Marketplace is pleased to announce its newest travel destination: Tanzania, including climbs of Mt. Kilimanjaro, and walking and driving safaris in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, with cultural visits with the Maasai and other local indigenous groups. Although an amazing destination, Detour had no plans to list any trips in Africa this year until Africa VIP Travel was brought to our attention by some of their previous clients. We checked the company out and liked what we found; we think you will too!
Africa VIP Travel has created an almost cult-like dedication from their previous passengers, many of whom claim that company owner and lead guide Kambona Ole Tirra Mollel is the best and safest guide in the region. Kambona cut his teeth leading trips for some of the biggest name international adventure travel companies based in the US, and his personal touch is evident in every trip offered by the company. He has climbed Kilimanjaro over 86 times, and his philosophy of treating everyone as a VIP has gained him great success in getting climbers to the summit of Kilimanjaro safely. Over the last decade Kambona has taken advanced training in expedition leadership from NOLS and others, as well as wilderness emergency medicine and natural history. Being a native Maasai, Kambona was born in Maasailand and is trilingual, speaking fluent Maasai, Swahili and English.
Africa VIP Travel offers Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs on the Machame Route, shorter and easier Mt. Meru climbs, and wildlife safaris in Tarangire, Ngoronogo Crater, Lake Manyara, and Serengeti National Parks. They also offer an unusual wildlife and cultural experience on their walking safari from the Ngorongoro Crater to Lake Eyasi, combining vehicle safaris in the incomparable Ngorongoro Crater with numerous opportunities to interact with local tribes, including the Maasai and Wahadzabe (bushmen).
