Indigenous Tourism

There is a fascinating article today in the Washington Post today about Randy Borman and the Cofan tribe in Ecuador. Borman, the son of missionaries who was raised with the Cofan in Ecuador, has helped the tribe expand the territory they manage to 6 times what it was in the early 1990’s, from 300 to nearly 1700 square miles today.

In this age when indigenous people in South America (and elsewhere) face continuing encroachment from roads, dams, oil companies, farmers, etc, it is amazing that the Cofan, under Borman’s guidance, have managed to protect their rainforest, and have actually increased the amount of land they manage.

Realizing the only way to thrive, or even survive, is to understand and work with the outside world, the Cofan are embracing education for their children and creating alliances with outside organizations, such as the Chicago Field Museum and various foundations in the USA.

Cofan are sending their children to private schools in Quito and to universities in the US.  This was the path Borman himself followed — born in the jungle, raised hunting and fishing, but studying in Quito and USA. Borman considers himself Cofan, having lived most of his life in the jungle with the tribe.

In the article, Borman “explained that the Cofan see the forest as a ‘product’ that can be sold to the world. ‘That’s what it is — the product is the intact, functioning rain forest,’ he said.”  He is now working on carbon credit plans that will allow wealthy nations to pay the Cofan to protect the rainforest.  In the article Borman says that in the Cofan territory they have zero deforestation and zero damage done to the land.

Having spent a bit of time in the Amazon basin in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia, it is great to hear a positive story about indigenous people in the Amazon.  Most recently I was with the Huaorani tribe, best known from Joe Kane’s excellent book Savages, at the Huaorani Ecolodge. Much of the Huaorani land has been taken over by oil companies and settlers from the highlands, and part of the visit to the lodge includes a canoe journey from pristine jungle to an area decimated by oil development, to show tourists what is happening to the jungle.

The Huaorani have decided that tourism is one of the best ways to earn money while maintaining their traditional lifestyle, and the ecolodge is their tourism venture.  Staying at the lodge is a fantastic insight into how people live in the jungle, and my visit there was one of my favorite trips all time.

We at Detour wholeheartedly support community based tourism projects such as the Huaorani Ecolodge, as it is another way for indigenous groups to have some say and control over their future. We hope all travelers will consider a trip to a community based tourism project so that while they are having an awesome vacation, their trip will also help to protect the way of life of an indigenous group.

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I just stumbled onto a very interesting looking documentary from a Montana filmmaker about the life of an Inca Trail porter: Mi Chacra (My Land) by Jason Burlage of Bozeman.  I hope to be able to make it to Missoula on Feb 19 for the film’s screening in the Wilma Theater at 5:30 as part of the Big Sky Documentary Film Festival.  Spread the word and get out and check out this film.

I feel it is always very important to learn about the people you will travel with and who live in the areas you visit on your trips.  This film looks like a good opportunity to learn more about the porters on the Inca Trail, and the people living in the highlands around the Sacred Valley. If you have trekked the Inca Trail, or plan to do so (or just visit Peru and Machu Picchu), you should check out this film.

Some of my best memories of Inca Trail trips involve sharing mouthfuls of coca leaves with the various porters I met along the trail. I would buy a large bag of coca leaves to take on the trip, and soon porters would start asking for some leaves.  It was a great way to share a moment and a laugh on the trek.

From the film’s facebook page:

“Raised in a small farming village in the mountains of southern Peru, Feliciano works as a porter on the Inca Trail in hopes of some day taking his son to live in the city. Framed by the seasons, Mi Chacra chronicles one year in Feliciano’s life, from the planting season in his community to the harvest, and through a season of work as a porter on the Inca Trail. The film paints a vivid picture of this man’s world, of the conflict between his love of the land and the work he has learned from his father, and the desire to see his son living what he sees as a better life in the city.”

I am really interested in this film, at least in part because many years ago on a trek I did with Mountain Travel-Sobek (it was a combo Apurimac Raft Trip/Salcantay Inca Trail trek — I was there to guide a raft on the Apurimac and to accompany the group on the Inca Trail), one of our porters died. It turned out he had been very ill before the trek but wanted the work because he needed the cash, so he hid his illness in order to get to go on the trek.  I’ve always wanted to know more about the porters since, and have been very concerned to make sure to only work with companies that have strong porter protection policies.

You can learn more about the film here:  http://www.michacrafilm.com, or check it out and become a fan on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mi-Chacra-My-Land/61308773565?ref=share

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The Peruvian Amazon has been spared this month from massive environmental damage, thanks to the public outcry and protests of brave Peruvians.

From the New York Times:
Peru’s Congress on Thursday overturned two decrees by President Alan García that were aimed at opening large areas of the Peruvian Amazon to logging, dams and oil drilling but set off protests by indigenous groups this month in which dozens died.


Tomas Munita for The New York Times– An Ashaninka indigenous woman cooked in the main road linking the central jungle to Lima.

The move appeared to ease tensions with the indigenous groups, which had continued with their protests and road blockades in parts of Peru despite Congress’s decision to suspend the decrees last month. After the vote on Thursday, however, some indigenous leaders said they would lift the scattered blockades and halt the protests.

“Today is a historic day for all indigenous people and for the nation of Peru,” said Daysi Zapata, a leader of the Peruvian Jungle Inter-Ethnic Development Association, a group representing more than 300,000 people from Peru’s indigenous groups.

The apparent end to the impasse came after at least 24 police officers and 10 civilians were killed in clashes and acts of retaliation in northern Bagua Province, some of Peru’s bloodiest political violence since a two-decade war ended in 2000.

The decrees, issued by Mr. García as part of a regulatory overhaul for a trade deal with the United States, were intended to open parts of jungle to investment and allow companies to bypass indigenous communities to attain permits for petroleum, biofuels and hydroelectric projects.

Other disputed decrees by Mr. García remain in effect, raising the prospect of new protests. Still, Mr. García acknowledged in a speech late Wednesday that his government had made a crucial mistake by not including native groups in discussions over the decrees before he issued them.

The repeal of the decrees and the apology by Mr. García open a new phase of uncertainty in Peru, where economic growth is sharply declining amid a decline in commodities prices.”

Written by Simon Romero

Published on June 18, 2009

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Rioting broke out in northern Peru on Friday after two months of fuel and transport blockades, and at least 30 indigenous protesters and 24 police officers have been killed. The indigenous tribes want to force Congress to repeal laws that encourage foreign mining in the rainforest.

According to the BBC (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/8088350.stm): “The violence erupted on Friday after 2,500 Indians – many of them carrying spears and machetes – protested over government plans to drill for gas and oil in what they consider their ancestral lands.”

While the situation remains serious in this region, it is not affecting other regions of Peru and tourism has not been disrupted in any way.

We’ll try to follow up with more information on the issues behind this violence as we learn more.

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Detour, The
Adventure Travel Marketplace is pleased to announce its newest travel destination: Tanzania, including climbs of Mt. Kilimanjaro, and walking and driving safaris in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, with cultural visits with the Maasai and other local indigenous groups. Although an amazing destination, Detour had no plans to list any trips in Africa this year until Africa VIP Travel was brought to our attention by some of their previous clients. We checked the company out and liked what we found; we think you will too!

Africa VIP Travel has created an almost cult-like dedication from their previous passengers, many of whom claim that company owner and lead guide Kambona Ole Tirra Mollel is the best and safest guide in the region. Kambona cut his teeth leading trips for some of the biggest name international adventure travel companies based in the US, and his personal touch is evident in every trip offered by the company. He has climbed Kilimanjaro over 86 times, and his philosophy of treating everyone as a VIP has gained him great success in getting climbers to the summit of Kilimanjaro safely. Over the last decade Kambona has taken advanced training in expedition leadership from NOLS and others, as well as wilderness emergency medicine and natural history. Being a native Maasai, Kambona was born in Maasailand and is trilingual, speaking fluent Maasai, Swahili and English.

Africa VIP Travel offers Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs on the Machame Route, shorter and easier Mt. Meru climbs, and wildlife safaris in Tarangire, Ngoronogo Crater, Lake Manyara, and Serengeti National Parks. They also offer an unusual wildlife and cultural experience on their walking safari from the Ngorongoro Crater to Lake Eyasi, combining vehicle safaris in the incomparable Ngorongoro Crater with numerous opportunities to interact with local tribes, including the Maasai and Wahadzabe (bushmen).

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