Ecuador Travel News

There is a fascinating article today in the Washington Post today about Randy Borman and the Cofan tribe in Ecuador. Borman, the son of missionaries who was raised with the Cofan in Ecuador, has helped the tribe expand the territory they manage to 6 times what it was in the early 1990’s, from 300 to nearly 1700 square miles today.

In this age when indigenous people in South America (and elsewhere) face continuing encroachment from roads, dams, oil companies, farmers, etc, it is amazing that the Cofan, under Borman’s guidance, have managed to protect their rainforest, and have actually increased the amount of land they manage.

Realizing the only way to thrive, or even survive, is to understand and work with the outside world, the Cofan are embracing education for their children and creating alliances with outside organizations, such as the Chicago Field Museum and various foundations in the USA.

Cofan are sending their children to private schools in Quito and to universities in the US.  This was the path Borman himself followed — born in the jungle, raised hunting and fishing, but studying in Quito and USA. Borman considers himself Cofan, having lived most of his life in the jungle with the tribe.

In the article, Borman “explained that the Cofan see the forest as a ‘product’ that can be sold to the world. ‘That’s what it is — the product is the intact, functioning rain forest,’ he said.”  He is now working on carbon credit plans that will allow wealthy nations to pay the Cofan to protect the rainforest.  In the article Borman says that in the Cofan territory they have zero deforestation and zero damage done to the land.

Having spent a bit of time in the Amazon basin in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia, it is great to hear a positive story about indigenous people in the Amazon.  Most recently I was with the Huaorani tribe, best known from Joe Kane’s excellent book Savages, at the Huaorani Ecolodge. Much of the Huaorani land has been taken over by oil companies and settlers from the highlands, and part of the visit to the lodge includes a canoe journey from pristine jungle to an area decimated by oil development, to show tourists what is happening to the jungle.

The Huaorani have decided that tourism is one of the best ways to earn money while maintaining their traditional lifestyle, and the ecolodge is their tourism venture.  Staying at the lodge is a fantastic insight into how people live in the jungle, and my visit there was one of my favorite trips all time.

We at Detour wholeheartedly support community based tourism projects such as the Huaorani Ecolodge, as it is another way for indigenous groups to have some say and control over their future. We hope all travelers will consider a trip to a community based tourism project so that while they are having an awesome vacation, their trip will also help to protect the way of life of an indigenous group.

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The Alta Before the Wreck

The Alta Before the Wreck

In March the beautiful sailing yacht Alta, one of the more famous yachts in the Galapagos Islands, ran aground while entering the harbor at Puerto Ayora and had to be evacuated.  Environmental damage to the Galapagos appeared to be minimal, and no one was injured in the wreck.  Ever since we’ve been waiting for news on the fate of the Alta, with hopes that she would return to service in the Galapagos Islands soon. Sadly, word came today that the Alta is a total loss and will be retired.  Bummer for sailing fans! The Alta was a beautiful boat with a fantastic Galapagos Islands itinerary and service, and she will be missed!

The good news is that Quasar Expeditions will be putting the trimaran Lammer Law back into service in the Galapagos to replace the Alta. We’ll have more information on the Lammer Law’s itinerary and service soon. Check out the message from Dolores Diez at Quasar:

The Lammer Law in the Galapagos Islands

The Lammer Law in the Galapagos Islands

Message from Quasar About the Alta:

It has been a little less than a month and a half since the Alta incident.  When the accident took place we quickly and successfully evacuated all fuel and contaminants from the Alta to avoid harm to the environment.  In addition, we worked closely with Galapagos National Park officials to keep the site of the accident clear of debris.  At this point, the only matter left on the table is the removal of the hull from the grounding site, which is out of our hands and the responsibility of our insurance provider.

From the beginning, we worked together with our insurance company to find the quickest way to refloat the Alta.  Unfortunately, the equipment and experts needed to do so were not readily available in Ecuador and any attempt to remove the Alta otherwise would have caused unnecessary damage to the site and the hull. Unfortunately the delay left the Alta susceptible to further damage by wind, tide and waves.

Subsequently, Hull and Machinery Insurance decided to declare the boat a total constructive loss.  This fact has further delayed the removal, with the result that P&I coverage recently was delegated control over the situation. Going through a salvage bid process has taken more time, resulting in boat undergoing further battering by the sea. The length of these delays resulted in the sea taking a toll, far beyond the original damage, that has now extended to the hull, causing irreparable damage. The vessel is now the property of the insurance company.

We are deeply saddened to report this news and to see our legendary sailing yacht end her days in the Galapagos in such a way. We also understand how disappointing this is to our customers.  We know that our guests look forward to their Galapagos adventures with great excitement and anticipation.

However, we have no intention of letting down our valued guests and we will therefore be offering the Lammer Law as the replacement for the Alta. In some cases we have already successfully moved other guests to both the Grace and Evolution. The Lammer Law already has a strong and positive reputation in the Galapagos and is perhaps the most legendary dive boat and adventure yacht in the Islands.

Based on years of experience we know that the Lammer Law offers an unforgettable experience equal to any in the Galapagos, though different in style from the Alta. We have currently begun refurbishing her to offer a high level of accommodations. Lammer Law will once again cruise her island home in the Galapagos beginning on June 20th, 2010.

Quasar has operated nearly 5,000 successful voyages in the Galapagos and we plan to offer many more to come.

Sincerely,

Dolores Gangotena de Diez
Commercial Vice-president
Quasar Expeditions

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In an effort to mitigate the negative effects of tourism in the Galapagos, the National Park has decided to enforce new restrictions on cruises.  Specifically, this means that four-day itineraries will not be offered any longer and vessels will operate with 15 day itineraries.  Those 15-day itineraries will be split up into shorter itineraries, but it looks like some of these details are still being discussed.  One of our local operators, Metropolitan Touring, sent us an update about this new proposal.

“15-day Itineraries Proposal of the Galapagos National Park

The Galapagos National Park has issued a notice to all Galapagos operators informing that, as of February 1st, 2011 all Galapagos vessels must operate with 15-day/14-night itineraries, which can be cut into two 7-night itineraries or as two 6-day/5 night and one 5-day/4-night itinerary.

The purpose of this measure is to re-arrange all itineraries in an orderly way and to control the number of persons visiting a determined visitor site at a given time.  Each vessel has to present its proposed itinerary for approval by the GNP, who will then assign the visitor sites according to each individual site’s acceptable load of visitors.

The different association of tour operators ADATUR, ASOGAL, FENACAPTUR, CAPTURGAL, airlines and hotels, have gotten together to work with the GNP to obtain the best possible definition and to put in place any change at the appropriate time, so as to allow you to arrange your travel programs in an efficient way.

Of course, nobody wishes to oppose a project that is geared toward the preservation of the islands; however, things are not clear enough to the main tour operators, who have gotten together to request an additional analysis of all the commercial, economic and logistics implications.

Currently, we don´t have a final resolution. Metropolitan Touring, as usual, is always ready for dialogue and mutual understanding among all actors of the public and private sectors, to identify the best alternatives and solutions in relation to the above matter.  We will keep in touch as the situation develops.”

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The  Airport Departure Tax for international flights out of the Jose Joaquin de Olmedo Internacional Airport of Guayaquil has increased to US $28.27. This is effective immediately.

There is no change in the Airport Departure Tax from the International Mariscal Sucre Airport in Quito, which remains at US $40.80.

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Ecoventura reports that cases of serious armed robbery are on the increase in Ecuador, and that muggings and pick pocketing have become more common recently.

As a result, on 30 September 2009, the Ecuadorian Government announced a 60 day ‘state of exception’ for the cities of Guayaquil, Quito and Manta in response to the current crime wave. This will enable Ecuadorian military forces to be used in conjunction with police units, with an increase in vehicle checkpoints.

Ecuadorian nationals and foreigners are advised to carry their identity documents with them at all times.

The US State department urges Americans living or traveling in Ecuador to register with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate through the State Department’s travel registration web site so that they can obtain updated information on travel and security within Ecuador.  Americans without Internet access may register directly with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate.  By registering, American citizens make it easier for the Embassy or Consulate to contact them in case of emergency.

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The Galapagos Journey II (Cormorant)

The Galapagos Journey II (Cormorant)

According to El Commercio (http://ww1.elcomercio.com/noticiaEC.asp?id_noticia=307762&id_seccion=8), an Ecudorian newspaper, the yacht Galapagos Journey II (Cormorant) has sunk in the Galapagos Islands. All 14 passengers and 8 crew appear to have been rescued.

We will get more details as soon as they are available.

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From Detour Partner Metropolitan Touring:

ROAD CONDITIONS IN ECUADOR

The rainy season in Ecuador has been particularly intense this year, and the main roads that descend from the highlands to the coast have experienced landslides that affect the normal traffic between these two regions.

The road Calacalí/Los Bancos that leads to Tulipe and Mindo has been particularly affected, and works are under way to repair the road, so until March 15 tours to the area of Mindo and Tulipe have been suspended in order to guarantee the safety and well being of our guests.
Alternate programs will be provided to affected guests.

The roads in the highlands of Ecuador are fully operative, and all tours in and around Quito, Otavalo, the Avenue of the Volcanoes and south to Cuenca are operating normally.

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Ecuador President Rafael Correa has refused to make an interest payment of $US30.6 million coupon payment on its 2012 global bonds by December 15, triggering the first sovereign default since the credit crisis started.

According to The Australian (http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/business/story/0,28124,24794064-5018001,00.html), “The voluntary decision to skip interest payments will likely plunge the country into financial turmoil at a time when global markets are roiling from the credit and economic crises.

“Ecuador’s credit ratings will be slashed to default, its overseas borrowing costs will soar and foreign investment is likely to decline. Complicating matters, the price of oil, Ecuador’s main source of revenue, has plunged in the last few months from historic highs.

“Moreover, the Government could be cut off from multi-lateral lenders such as the World Bank and the Inter-American Development Bank, though in recent months it has been seeking alternative financing from countries such as China, Iran, Russia and Venezuela.”

So what does this mean for tourism in Ecuador? I don’t think anybody knows at the moment. I guess we will have to wait and see, but I won’t be surprised to see some local tour operators go out of business. Fortunately, the providers that Detour works with are some of the most stable, best funded tour operators in Ecuador.

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The Latin America Travel Association (http://www.lata.org) last week held its inaugural LATA Travel Awards ceremony, with members voting for the outstanding performers in eight categories.

The Huaorani Ecolodge in the Ecuadorian Amazon was named Best Sustainable Tourism Project by LATA members. Visitors to the comfortable, minimal impact, 5 room lodge experience the richness of the Huaorani culture and their natural environment, while learning about the challenges facing the tribe. Community Association President Moi Enomenga (photo) accepted on behalf of the Huaorani communities involved.

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Kapawi Ecolodge and Reserve, in Ecuador’s Amazon Basin, reports that they have been named one of the top 50 Ecolodges in the world for 2009 by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. Congratulations to Kapawi!

Kapawi is a great project of the Achuar Nation, and is a remarkable community based tourism project.

Kapawi Lodge, located 100 miles east of the Andes in the most remote region of the Ecuadorian Amazon basin, is a fantastic destination for visiting with the local Achuar community, hiking in the rainforest, canoeing and swimming in rivers and lakes, and for viewing wildlife, such as pihanhas, pink dolphins, caiman and the 480 species of birds that have been recorded in the area.

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Metropolitan Touring, Ecuador, reports today today that airport taxes for flights departing Quito will increase.

Effective November 17, 2008 the Airport Tax for international departures at the Mariscal Sucre International Airport in Quito, Ecuador will increase to US$ 44.30. (It is currently US$ 40.80).

For local flights, the tax goes up to US$ 9.40 (from US$ 7.60). This tax is included within the cost of the local flights.

This increase in the airport tax is contemplated in the contract of Quiport, the concessionary of the Quito Airport, to maintain an efficient operation.

The Airport Tax at the Guayaquil International Airport Jose Joaquin de Olmedo has not been modified.

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Quasar Expeditions reports that Guayaquil’s Jose Joaquin Olmedo airport will be closed for runway maintenance from 12 midnight until 8 am each day from NOVEMBER 5 through NOVEMBER 24, 2008 (20 days).

Only flights that were scheduled to land in Guayaquil during the time frame specified above will be affected. These flights will either be canceled, forced to land in Quito or undergo a change of schedule, depending on the airline. If traveling to Guayaquil on these dates, you should confirm with your airline if there will be any change to their regular flight schedule.

All other flights will operate normally, including flights to the Galapagos Islands. There is NO CHANGE to Galapagos flight schedule for these dates.

Ecuador is famous for last minute announcements like this, and if previous airport maintenance projects are any indicator, don’t be surprised to see the repairs take longer than scheduled.

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May 1 is Labor Day in Ecuador, a national holiday. This means that most local travel companies’ sales offices will be closed on May 1. If you are waiting for information about booking a trip, please note that offices will be closed and no one will respond until May 2 (some offices are closed on the 2nd also, so you may not get a response until next week).

It seems like Ecuador has a lot of holidays–I think I need to move there!

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As a result of Ecuador’s recently-approved ICE tax (special consumption tax), the prices of wines and liquors have increased between 10 and 20%, depending on the type of wine or liquor. As a result, the prices of the drinks and wines offered on board Galapagos ships will increase between 10 and 20%.

Ecuador seems intent on raising taxes and fees for foreign visitors, and does not give much warning on imposing these fees. Travelers on Ecuador Tours and Galapagos Tours are advised to expect unannounced price increases in Ecuador due to new government initiatives.

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Transit (Migration) Control Card Regulations Eliminate Date Flexibility in the Galapagos Islands

Travelers must know their specific departure date before entering the Galapagos Islands. In the past many people visiting the Galapagos Islands would change their return flight date to extend their stay in the Galapagos after their cruise. Unfortunately, the Transit Control Cards have eliminated any date flexibility, meaning that travelers can’t just decide to extend their trip while they are in the Galapagos.

Travelers arriving to the Galapagos must specify to the Galapagos authorities their exact departure date from the Islands, as the Transit Control Card (issued on the mainland) will contain their departure information. Any travelers found on the Islands after the departure date specified on their Transit Control Cards will be fined and sent back to the mainland on the first flight from their corresponding airline.

While this change eliminates a great deal of flexibility, any attempts by the Ecuadorian authorities to protect the Galapagos Islands must be appreciated and supported. If you think you may want to extend your stay in the Islands we suggest you book this in advance of your trip. This will also allow you to be sure you can get the return flight you prefer and the hotel of your choice.

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ENTRY CARDS TO PROTECT THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

The Galapagos National Institute (INGALA) started a trial period to begin issuing a special entry card to the Galapagos, aimed to protect the islands. Earlier this year, Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa announced that the Galapagos Islands are at risk and declared that the archipelago’s conservation and environment management is an issue of national priority.

As previously informed, the issuing of this card was supposed to start on October 22; however, it seems they are having internal problems with the different processes and institutions, airlines, travel agencies involved has made it necessary to first implement a “trial period” until possibly November 5.

The Migration Control Card, which has a cost of US$ 10 (payable in cash), seeks to control visitors to the archipelago as tourists must state their status to avoid permanent stay in the islands. This personal yellow card will be given to passengers on their arrival to the Baltra or San Cristobal airport.

As per information of the Director of INGALA, the migration card will be handed out directly or through travel agencies, airlines flying to Galapagos and tourism operators. The card allows tourists a maximum 90-day stay in the islands.

The information needed is full name (as it appears in the passport), passport number and date of birth.

-Courtesy of Metropolitan Touring

Please remember that this card is in addition to the Galapagos National Park Entrance Fee ($100 per adult, to be paid in cash upon arrival)

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Today, August 10th, Ecuador observes a national holiday, celebrating the first call for independence from Spain. For nearly 300 years, the Spanish had occupied and imposed colonial rule over Ecuador and much of Latin America. The inhabitants of Quito, the present-day capital of Ecuador, declared on August 10, 1809 their intention to secede from Spanish rule. Their success came 1822 after the Battle of Pichincha and they joined Simon Bolivar’s Republic of Gran Columbia. In 1830, with the dissolution of Gran Columbia, Ecuador formed its own republic.

Ecuador’s proclamation in 1809 is widely regarded as a catalyst for the continent-wide independence movement that soon followed. Because of their inspiring initial efforts to oust the Spanish, Quito is referred to as “Luz de America” which means “light of America.”

August 10th has since become a federal holiday wherein Ecuadorians can celebrate and honor the heroic achievements of their ancestors.

One of the best ways to learn about Ecuadorian history is to visit the country itself. Detour features cultural tours of this amazing destination, including tours of Quito (a UNESCO world heritage site) and other places of special historic importance. Visit Detour to learn more about cultural tours of Ecuador.

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From Quasar Expeditions–

Last week the Ecuadorian Government overturned a law that prohibited the export of shark fins from Ecuador. It is now legal to export the fins of these animals and the incidental catch of sharks is also now legal. With these new laws, shark fishing is out of control. There is no logical way to determine if the fishing of sharks was incidental, but fishing ships are returning to port with more sharks than ever before.

The population of sharks is in danger all over Ecuadorian waters, including Galapagos, where several fishing ships have been found illegally fishing inside the marine reserve. Furthermore, the Ecuadorian Government has not renewed the contract that it had with Sea Shepherd International, a company that provided ships to patrol Galapagos waters in search of illegal shark fishing.

The situation is a very sad one for the future of the Galapagos Islands. Sharks are amongst the most essential underwater creatures in a healthy marine environment and their future is very uncertain.

We ask all agencies to help and take action in any way that they can to stop this massacre. You can contact organizations that you work with to put pressure on the Ministry of the Environment (mma@ambiente.gov.ec), the Ministry of Tourism (ministra@turismo.gov.ec), and the presidency (sugerencias@presidencia.gov.ec). Please send emails directly to those addresses, as well, expressing your opinions and concerns on the issue.

With enough resistance, we trust that these new laws can be overturned.

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As of August 1, 2007, the Airport Departure Tax from the International Airport of Quito will increase to US$ 40.80.

For local flights, the airport tax will also increase to US$ 7.60, but this amount is already included in the rate of the domestic air tickets.

There has been no change in the Airport Departure Tax from the International Airport of Guayaquil; it continues to be US$ 26.00.

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ECUADOR MORE COMMITTED THAN EVER TO PRESERVING THE NATURAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE OF THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Ministry of Tourism Outlines Measures Aimed at Protecting Galapagos’ Natural and Cultural Heritage

QUITO, Ecuador – July 04th, 2007 – Following the recent addition of the Galapagos Islands to the list of World Heritage Sites endangered by the UNESCO, Ecuador has reinforced its commitment to protecting the islands and has outlined some of the different initiatives that it has been undertaking jointly with national and international entities in order to preserve the Galapagos’ natural and cultural heritage.

All tourism activity is being carried out normally in the islands and in accordance with the current regulations that prioritize the conservation of the archipelago’s eco-system. Tourism is one of the most strictly controlled activities in the Galapagos Islands .

“The inscription of the Galapagos Islands on the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger provides an opportunity to garner national and international support for the Islands ‘ conservation,” said Maria Isabel Salvador, Ecuador’s Minister of Tourism.

Maria Isabel Salvador also assured that the Ecuadorian government, led by President Rafael Correa, is well aware of the threats faced by the Galapagos Islands which led the government to declare the archipelago “in risk and of national priority for the conservation and environmental management” of its unique ecosystem in April of this year.

Numerous government ministries and organizations have been working to implement measures aimed at protecting the Galapagos Islands from all activities that are deemed non-sustainable. Now Ecuador will also have the opportunity to mobilize international support for the Islands ‘ conservation.

Ecuador has become one of the world leaders in sustainable tourism development. The Ministry of Tourism is currently developing PLANDETUR 2020, a master plan that will set guidelines regulating the tourism activity in all of Ecuador in order to guarantee a sustainable development of the tourism industry in the country, aimed at preserving its numerous natural wonders, historic wealth as well as the cultural heritage of its native populations. Ecuador has also joined forces with the Rainforest Alliance and the Global Sustainable Tourism Alliance with the goal of preserving Ecuador ’s natural and cultural assets.

Some of the more specific initiatives that the Ministry of Tourism is working on include:

- New technical norms affecting tourism operations in the Galapagos that will come into effect at the end of 2007. These new norms will regulate every activity from island tours to diving, snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, and fishing.

- Coordination of actions with the Ministry of the Environment aimed at effectively controlling tourism activity in the Galapagos.

- Reforming regulation controlling the work of tour and nature guides in order to ensure stricter controls of their activities.

The Ministry of Tourism is also working on “Turismo para todos” (Tourism for All), a training program for micro businesses within the tourism sector in order to help them develop their operations in a sustainable manner.

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