Community Based Tourism

There is a fascinating article today in the Washington Post today about Randy Borman and the Cofan tribe in Ecuador. Borman, the son of missionaries who was raised with the Cofan in Ecuador, has helped the tribe expand the territory they manage to 6 times what it was in the early 1990’s, from 300 to nearly 1700 square miles today.

In this age when indigenous people in South America (and elsewhere) face continuing encroachment from roads, dams, oil companies, farmers, etc, it is amazing that the Cofan, under Borman’s guidance, have managed to protect their rainforest, and have actually increased the amount of land they manage.

Realizing the only way to thrive, or even survive, is to understand and work with the outside world, the Cofan are embracing education for their children and creating alliances with outside organizations, such as the Chicago Field Museum and various foundations in the USA.

Cofan are sending their children to private schools in Quito and to universities in the US.  This was the path Borman himself followed — born in the jungle, raised hunting and fishing, but studying in Quito and USA. Borman considers himself Cofan, having lived most of his life in the jungle with the tribe.

In the article, Borman “explained that the Cofan see the forest as a ‘product’ that can be sold to the world. ‘That’s what it is — the product is the intact, functioning rain forest,’ he said.”  He is now working on carbon credit plans that will allow wealthy nations to pay the Cofan to protect the rainforest.  In the article Borman says that in the Cofan territory they have zero deforestation and zero damage done to the land.

Having spent a bit of time in the Amazon basin in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia, it is great to hear a positive story about indigenous people in the Amazon.  Most recently I was with the Huaorani tribe, best known from Joe Kane’s excellent book Savages, at the Huaorani Ecolodge. Much of the Huaorani land has been taken over by oil companies and settlers from the highlands, and part of the visit to the lodge includes a canoe journey from pristine jungle to an area decimated by oil development, to show tourists what is happening to the jungle.

The Huaorani have decided that tourism is one of the best ways to earn money while maintaining their traditional lifestyle, and the ecolodge is their tourism venture.  Staying at the lodge is a fantastic insight into how people live in the jungle, and my visit there was one of my favorite trips all time.

We at Detour wholeheartedly support community based tourism projects such as the Huaorani Ecolodge, as it is another way for indigenous groups to have some say and control over their future. We hope all travelers will consider a trip to a community based tourism project so that while they are having an awesome vacation, their trip will also help to protect the way of life of an indigenous group.

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Today I stumbled across the trailer for the documentary Crude.

The official website describes the film as a “story of one of the largest and most controversial environmental lawsuits on the planet. The inside story of the infamous “Amazon Chernobyl” case [which takes place in the Amazon jungle of Ecuador, pitting 30,000 indigenous and colonial rainforest dwellers against the U.S. oil giant Chevron]… offers a real-life high stakes legal drama, set against a backdrop of the environmental movement, global politics, celebrity activism, human rights advocacy, the media, multinational corporate power, and rapidly-disappearing indigenous cultures”.

So what does oil extraction in the Ecuadorian rainforest have to do with sustainable tourism?

Oil was discovered in the Ecuadorian Amazon in 1967 by Texaco. Since then frequent oil spills, faulty waste storage, and questionable land acquisition have devastated the land many indigenous people rely on. As documented in 2008, the government blocks off an area for hydrocarbon activities – which it can then lease to multi-national energy corporations, “many of the blocks overlap with indigenous territories, both titled lands and areas utilized by peoples in voluntary isolation.” Basically, the way its set up now does little to protect the indigenous people of the Amazon.

Sustainable tourism has provided an avenue for indigenous tribes to preserve their environment and cultural integrity, as opposed to being “forced” into working for big oil and timber companies (resource extraction). Take the Huaroni Ecolodge -  a rainforest lodge run mostly by the Huaoroni people. In the mid 90’s, in an effort to protect their land from oil companies, they turned to ecotourism as a means to receive an income while still maintaining their cultural practices and conserving their rainforest territory.

While tourism can have some very negative impacts on a place and inherently it has elements of harm (take carbon emissions alone) – there are also tourism practices that are very beneficial to the local communities. And it’s those practices that we, as travelers, can feel good about supporting.

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I just stumbled onto a very interesting looking documentary from a Montana filmmaker about the life of an Inca Trail porter: Mi Chacra (My Land) by Jason Burlage of Bozeman.  I hope to be able to make it to Missoula on Feb 19 for the film’s screening in the Wilma Theater at 5:30 as part of the Big Sky Documentary Film Festival.  Spread the word and get out and check out this film.

I feel it is always very important to learn about the people you will travel with and who live in the areas you visit on your trips.  This film looks like a good opportunity to learn more about the porters on the Inca Trail, and the people living in the highlands around the Sacred Valley. If you have trekked the Inca Trail, or plan to do so (or just visit Peru and Machu Picchu), you should check out this film.

Some of my best memories of Inca Trail trips involve sharing mouthfuls of coca leaves with the various porters I met along the trail. I would buy a large bag of coca leaves to take on the trip, and soon porters would start asking for some leaves.  It was a great way to share a moment and a laugh on the trek.

From the film’s facebook page:

“Raised in a small farming village in the mountains of southern Peru, Feliciano works as a porter on the Inca Trail in hopes of some day taking his son to live in the city. Framed by the seasons, Mi Chacra chronicles one year in Feliciano’s life, from the planting season in his community to the harvest, and through a season of work as a porter on the Inca Trail. The film paints a vivid picture of this man’s world, of the conflict between his love of the land and the work he has learned from his father, and the desire to see his son living what he sees as a better life in the city.”

I am really interested in this film, at least in part because many years ago on a trek I did with Mountain Travel-Sobek (it was a combo Apurimac Raft Trip/Salcantay Inca Trail trek — I was there to guide a raft on the Apurimac and to accompany the group on the Inca Trail), one of our porters died. It turned out he had been very ill before the trek but wanted the work because he needed the cash, so he hid his illness in order to get to go on the trek.  I’ve always wanted to know more about the porters since, and have been very concerned to make sure to only work with companies that have strong porter protection policies.

You can learn more about the film here:  http://www.michacrafilm.com, or check it out and become a fan on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mi-Chacra-My-Land/61308773565?ref=share

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60 Minutes had a great piece this past Sunday on the $27 billion dollar lawsuit facing Chevron for environmental degradation in the Amazon Basin. NPR had a radio story on this last week as well. This is the largest environmental damage suit in history, and it is being decided by a single judge in Lago Agrio, Ecuador, sometime this year.

In the 1960’s Texaco started to drill for oil in one of the largest oil reserves in the America’s, in Ecuador’s Amazon Basin. Texaco, along with partner PetroEcuador (Ecuador’s national oil company), pumped out 1.5 nillion barrels of oil from the jungle. But with each well came roads, pipelines, and pits filled with toxic oil waste. When Texaco finished drilling they abandoned the pits, causing oil to contaminate groundwater and to seep into the Amazon Basin’s streams.

This region of Ecuador, the upper Amazon Basin, besides being one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet, is also home to numerous indigenous tribes who rely on the clean water in the rivers and streams for drinking water, food, etc.

Chevron bought Texaco in 2001, and now they may be held responsible for the environmental mess left behind by Texaco in Ecuador. While who is responsible is at debate in the lawsuit, the environmental degradation isn’t really debatable. Of course there are disagreements on how many pits there are, or the cost to clean up the mess, but no one argues there is no mess at all.

I experienced this environmental degradation first hand in 2007 when I visited the Huaorani Ecolodge, a community-based tourism project in the Amazon. The Huaorani Ecolodge was created, in part, to provide jobs and income for the Huaorani so that they don’t need to take jobs with the oil companies to help destroy their homeland.

Oil was discovered on Huao territory decades ago, and today vast portions of their previous land have been cleared for wells, roads, and pipelines. On our trip, one moment we were floating down a placid, wild, river, listening to Huao origination legends as told by Moi, the Huao member who has become famous due to Joe Kane’s book “Savages,” and the next we rounded a bend and encountered denuded forest and rusty pipelines. On our way back to town and the airport, we stopped along the road put in by the oil companies to see some of the oil waste pits; they are, frankly, disgusting. I’m quite sure we would never allow open oil pits that seep into rivers and groundwater in the United States.

While I don’t know the answer to who ultimately is at fault in a contractual or legal sense, and thus who should pay, it is quite clear that someone needs to be held accountable and must pay both to clean up the oil, and to compensate families for pollution-caused health issues and the loss of their traditional lifestyle caused by this pollution. This will be an interesting trial to watch.

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The Latin America Travel Association (http://www.lata.org) last week held its inaugural LATA Travel Awards ceremony, with members voting for the outstanding performers in eight categories.

The Huaorani Ecolodge in the Ecuadorian Amazon was named Best Sustainable Tourism Project by LATA members. Visitors to the comfortable, minimal impact, 5 room lodge experience the richness of the Huaorani culture and their natural environment, while learning about the challenges facing the tribe. Community Association President Moi Enomenga (photo) accepted on behalf of the Huaorani communities involved.

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Kapawi Ecolodge and Reserve, in Ecuador’s Amazon Basin, reports that they have been named one of the top 50 Ecolodges in the world for 2009 by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. Congratulations to Kapawi!

Kapawi is a great project of the Achuar Nation, and is a remarkable community based tourism project.

Kapawi Lodge, located 100 miles east of the Andes in the most remote region of the Ecuadorian Amazon basin, is a fantastic destination for visiting with the local Achuar community, hiking in the rainforest, canoeing and swimming in rivers and lakes, and for viewing wildlife, such as pihanhas, pink dolphins, caiman and the 480 species of birds that have been recorded in the area.

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Kambona Ole Tirra Mollel, owner and lead guide for Africa VIP Travel gave a great presentation at Exploration Works in Helena, MT, last night. Even though the event was organized last minute due to the troubles Kambona had in getting a visa to visit the US, turnout was good and the classroom was packed to overflowing. Way to show up Helena, and thanks Amy and the staff at Exploration Works for all your hard work setting this up!

Kambona gave a very detailed talk on climbing Mt Kilimanjaro, with route descriptions and details on why his trips are so good. Not all Kili trips are created equally, and Kambona has put a lot of thought and energy into choosing a route and itinerary that maximizes climber’s experiences and sucess rates on Kilimanjaro. He treats his porters right, and carries portable toilets so his climbers don’t need to use the disgusting public toilets where they risk getting stomach bugs.

He also had great slides and information on wildlife and cultural walking safaris in Tanzania.
The new pictures are great, and I for one am dying to go on a walking safari with Kambona or one of his other guides. The mix of cultural interaction with the Maasai and Bushmen tribes, combined with wildlife viewing looks like a truly memorable trip that totally blows away the traditional safari vehicle trip in Eastern Africa.

Look for more details soon on these great trips, including new photos and descriptions here: Mt Kilimanjaro and Tanzania Safaris.

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