Ecuador has agreed not to drill for oil in the Amazon Basin’s Yasuni Preserve in exchange for payments of up to $3.6 billion from wealthy nations.

Huaorani tribal leader Moi at an oil well on Huaorani ancestral land.

Huaorani tribal leader Moi at an oil well on Huaorani ancestral land.

The BBC and Yahoo News are reporting that Ecuador signed an agreement with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) on August 3, agreeing to not drill any of the 3 oilfields under the Yasuni Reserve for 10 years.  The $3.6 billion represents about half of what the country would earn from the sale of oil from the Yasuni.

The 3 Yasuni oilfields are said to hold up to  846 million barrels of oil, which is 20% of Ecuador’s oil.  Oil is Ecuador’s leading export.

This deal is big news for the Huaorani and other indigenous people in Eucador, as Huaorani territory overlaps with Yasuni National Park in many places.  Huaorani and trible lands have already been impacted heavily by oil development, and hopefully this agreement will help protect the land from the destructive oil production. Oil development on tribal lands kills the wildlife and makes it very different for subsistence hunter / gatherers to survive.

The Yasuni has been declared a World Bioshpere Reserve by Unesco.  It is considered one of the most biologically diverse regions on earth, with as many different species in one hectare as in all of North America. 644 different species of trees have been identified in one hectare in Yasuni.

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Darwin

Metropolitan Touring shares with us an update on their Galapagos-Ecuador Foundation (Fundacion Galapagos-Ecuador) sustainability projects.

The Foundation is an Ecuadorian, non-profit organization, founded in 1998 with the mission of providing support and funding for conservation projects directly related to the sustainable development of the Galapagos Islands.

It’s three sustainability projects report great success:

1. Coastal Cleanup: Since the project’s start in 1999, 109 organized, coastal clean-ups and with the

Beach at Puerto Egas (James Bay) Santiago Isalnd

Beach at Puerto Egas (James Bay) Santiago Isalnd

help of local fishermen  175,973 lbs (79,988 kg) of solid debris has been removed. Twelve more clean-ups are scheduled throughout 2010.

2. Solid- Waste Management & Recycling On Santa Cruz Island – the most highly populated of the Islands – the program has recycled a total of 4,217,156.20 lbs  (1,916,889.20 kg) of solid waste. Over 2 million lbs of organic material has been composted and used as fertilizer for local farmers, improving the quality of their produce while relying less on shipments of fertilizer from the mainland (or the use of artificial fertilizers).

Additionally, plans are in the works for a recycling pilot program on Isabela Island.

3. Local Students On Board Galapagos Expeditions Conservation education for Galapagos children is a must. And what better way than to give them the opportunity to explore the islands they call home. As of 1998, 192 students have experienced the islands on one of Metropolitan’s expedition fleets. Currently, preparations are being made for another 50 students!

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To support the continued conservation efforts consider a contribution to the Galapagos-Ecuador Foundation. Please write directly to fge@metropolitan-touring.com for more details.

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Birding in Ecuador

by Allie Savage on July 15, 2010

With more than half the bird species of South America found in this relatively small country, Ecuador is a great destination for bird-watching. In addition to the the Galapagos, Ecuador’s Cloud Forests and Amazon Basin provide countless birding opportunities. Below you’ll find a few of the options available.

JUNGLE LODGES IN EL ORIENTE (Ecuador’s Amazon)

1. Napo Wildlife Center

http://www.detourdestinations.com/products/Napo_Wildlife_Center_16420.html

Ecuador has a variety of jungle lodges. Napo Wildlife Center is said to be one of the best for wildlife viewing.

Because of its location, hidden amidst 82 square miles of pristine rainforest, Napo Wildlife Center offers some of the best Ecuadorian Amazon wildlife viewing to be had. And in particular, over 650 species of birds. In first-class accommodations this remote jungle-lodge offers great birding with easily accessed parrot clay licks and 2 canopy towers.

Parrot Clay Lick - Napo Wildlife Center

Parrot Clay Lick - Napo Wildlife Center

In a recent visit – we got to see several species of parrots, toucans, woodpeckers and – because I’m not a birder – countless other colorful, bizarre, beautiful speicies of birds!

CLOUD FOREST

2. Tandayapa – Birdwatching

Convenient, one-day tour departing from Quito. Operated by, Metropolitan Touring, a very well-known and reputable Ecuadorian tour company.

Tandayapa is a crossroad settlement at 5,248 feet (1,600 meters) on the western slope of the Andes in Pichincha where the old road from Quito to Nono splits, one proceeding to Mindo and beyond and the other to Nanegal. Take the old Nono-Mindo road, a well-known birding road that descends the west slope of the Andes from Quito that leads to the rich Montane and Cloud Forests.  These are the habitat of the Black-and-chestnut Eagle, Dark-backedWood-Quail, Purplebibbed, whitetip, Gorgeted Sunangel, Giant Antpitta,Tanager Finch, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Toucan Barbet, and the Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan.  Lunch at Bellavista, surrounded by a surprising amount of hummingbirds around the feeders.

Bellavista is deep in the heart of the cloud forest, where clouds and trees blend in a tapestry of mystery and magic.  It’s a place for adventure, relaxation and deep contact with nature, home to hundreds of species of plants, birds and other animals. Return to Quito in the afternoon.

For those with more time plan a stay at Bellavista Lodge. Known for the large variety of hummingbirds in the area.

View from porch of Santa Lucia Eco-Lodge

View from porch of Santa Lucia Eco-Lodge

3 Santa Lucia: Ecuadorian Cloud Forest Ecolodge
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294308-d555887-r58978869-Santa_Lucia_Lodge-Quito.html

A relatively new tourist attraction, though years in the making. This community-based ecolodge is way off the beaten path, perched high on mountain-top with 360 degree views of cloud forest below. Daily birding opportunities with a local, bi-lingual guide, including an at dawn visit to the Andean Cock-of-the -Rock. First-class birding (especially during Sept and Nov) in a cozy mountain lodge, on-site organic garden for tasty local dishes, endless trails and attentive service from local community members (that care) make this visit truly one of a kind.

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Most Sacred Valley tours follow the same well-rutted route:  Ollantaytambo Ruins, lunch in Urubamba, and a stop at the Pisaq Market/ruins.  Everyone leaves and returns to Cusco at the same time, so you wind up swimming through a lot of tourist groups during your one-day excursion.  It doesn’t mean you should skip the Sacred, but there a few smart ways to explore this gorgeous place.

Stopping for a break while biking in the Sacred Valley

Stopping for a break while biking in the Sacred Valley

1.  Go by Bike:  The Sacred Valley has loads of walking trails without steps or terrible inclines, which means great biking.  You don’t have to be an expert (though you do know how to ride a bike in general) to get in a fun workout and a feel for life in the quiet countryside.

2.  Stay the night:  By spending a little extra time, you’ll get to see a little local life apart from the tourist crowds.  Wandering around laid-back Ollantaytambo feels like a completely different town once the tourist buses have departed.  Small aside:  Ollantay is the only town where people still inhabit the Incan buildings and water flows down canals, just like they did 500 years ago.

3.  See the ruins early (or late):  This is only possible if you plan on staying overnight in the nearby town.  The ruins of Ollantaytambo and Pisaq are right beside their respective towns, so waking up early can get you there before the rush from Cusco.  Or, if you go a bit later, you can miss some of the crowds who have moved on but this is a little trickier to pull-off.

Tunnel in the Pisaq Ruins

Tunnel in the Pisaq Ruins

4.  Get off the Beaten Path:  The Sacred Valley is more than just Ollantaytambo, Pisaq and Urubamba.  While those are all certainly impressive, you can start to get a little “ruined-out.”  There are lots of great ruins, towns, and trails that very few people get to see, just because they don’t allow more than one-day in the Sacred Valley.  Some of our favorites (in or near the Sacred Valley) include:

- Maras Salt Pans

- Moray Ruins

- Huchuy Cusco Hike

- Pumamarca Ruins

- Lares Hotsprings

- Hike around Chinchero

These are great excursions on their own or when combined with some more traditional stops in the Sacred Valley.

P4ai pumamarca Ollantaytambo (4)

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Many hopeful travelers have recently learned that Inca Trail permits are now sold out for the entire 2010 summer; so the most obvious alternative is the Salkantay Trek.  But once you start looking into all the Salkantay treks, it’s kind of tricky to suss out the differences between each option.  Our handy guide below will answer all your burning questions about the Salkantay trek.

Salkantay picture taking

SALKANTAY TREK (what the heck is it?)

This is the most popular alternative to the traditional Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu.  Of course, no trek other than the Inca Trail will let you hike directly into Machu Picchu.  This trek, however, gets you pretty darn close so it’s a good runner up.  Basically, you’re going to be hiking around, but not summiting, the Salkantay peak (a gorgeous, snow-topped behemoth that reaches 20,574 ft) and winding up in Aguas Calientes, the small town just outside Machu Picchu.  The Salkanty peak is located in the Cordillera Vilcanota, a prominent mountain range in the Andes; it is northwest of Cusco and south of Machu Picchu.  It’s considered a moderately difficult trek, especially because of the entire area’s formidable altitude, and some say it’s a bit more challenging than the Inca Trail.  There are some variations which make the trek as difficult or long as you like, which you can read about below.  No matter how long the trek, most trips start at or near the small town Mollepata.

OPTIONS

4-Day Trek: This route skirts along the west side of the Salkantay peak for a few days and over the Salkanty pass (at 15,091 ft).   You hike to the small town of La Playa, where a bus takes you to Santa Teresa and you hike to Hidroelectrica.  From there, you either take a train or continue walking to Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu.  This trek is often called the 5-day trip because of an extra day to get to and tour Machu Picchu.  You do not need an Inca Trail permit to do this trek.  Read about this version of the Salkantay Trek here: Apu Salkantay Trek (see “Even more options” below as well).

6-Day Trek: The 6-day trek is also a non-permitted trek, and splits from the classic Salkantay trek above at La Playa (before Hidroelectica and Santa Teresa at the end).   Instead, the 6-day trek includes an extra two days to trek over the Llactapata pass which feature Inca Ruins, before arriving directly in Aguas Calientes.  This lovely extension features hiking through Llucmabamba, visiting some Inca ruins and an awesome view of Machu Picchu from a vantage point few reach.  To find out more about the 6-day trek (7-day trip in total if you include Machu Picchu), please click on the following link: Machu Picchu Lodge-to-Lodge Trek.

7-Day Trek: This is usually called the “Salkantay and Inca Trail Trek” or the “Mollepata route of the Inca Trail.”  It is a combination between the  Salkantay and Inca Trail.  You’ll follow the Salkantay trail the first four days of the trek, then from days 5 through 7, you’ll be on the traditional Inca Trail.  Because you’re on the Inca Trail for part of the trek, you do need the Inca Trail permits.   To learn more about this trek, please visit the following link: Mt. Salkantay & Inca Trail Trek

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Hiking from Llucmabamba to Hidroelectrica

Even More Options!

Of course, there are variations from those main routes as well.  For instance the Backcountry Trek does not begin the trek at Mollepata, but a bit further on, which allows travelers to take the hike from Llucmabamba over to Hidroelectrica and visit Machu Picchu (all within 5 days).  Another variation is the Salkantay – Chillca route, which splits from the main Salkantay route to cross over into the Sacred Valley and visit Machu Picchu (again, within 5 days).

Once you figure out how much time you have, and how remote you want your hike to be, the Salkantay trek options make more sense.  No matter which route you take, this is an exciting and accessible trek for anyone looking for an alternative to the traditional Inca Trail.

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Napo Wildlife Center

Napo Wildlife Center

Packing may be my least favorite part of travel. There’s always that unsettled feeling that something important has been forgotten.

I’ll admit when packing for my stay in Ecuador’s Amazon at the Napo Wildlife Center I felt lost. But through some trial and error – you figure out what it is you definitely want and what you could have left behind.

Amazon Jungle Stays: 5 Essentials to Pack:

Downpour en route to Napo Wildlife Center

Downpour en route to Napo Wildlife Center

1. Your own rain gear… This may seem like a no brainer, but a lot of lodges do provide you with a rain poncho and, therefore, some people opt to rely on those. I found that when the rain hits – as suddenly as it can in the rainforest – it’s quite convenient to have your own gear you can reach for. Rather than waiting for your guide to dig it out and distribute.

2. A Good Pair of Binoculars… As the most biologically diverse place on Earth, the Amazon rainforest boasts of it’s wildlife. But, you probably won’t see much of it with out a good pair of your own binoculars.

3. Bug Spray… I despise Deet, but in the rainforest we became friends. I tried to do the all natural and around the resort it worked great. But in the midst of the forest – sitting intently still – it just didn’t cut it. Having your own bottle of bug spray (whatever works for you) is priceless.

4. Head lamp or small flashlight…  small lights are great for reading at night without attracting bugs into your room. They also aid in getting around.

5. Dry Bag (plastic bags)… On most outings most people carry a little day pack – camera, water, rain gear, birding books, journal – a dry bag ensures all your valuables stay dry. A must have. Plastic bags will also do the trick.

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Train service should return to normal between Cusco and Machu Picchu on July 1, 2010.

It appears the repairs to the train tracks from Cusco to Ollantaytambo are nearly finished, allowing train service to resume from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) on July 1, 2010.  The train tracks were damaged due to severe flooding caused by extra heavy rains in January.

The damaged tracks prevented trains from reaching Aguas Calientes for the months of February and March, forcing the closure of Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail (closed every February anyway) for those months.  Repairs to the tracks were begun immediately, and the track from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes was re-opened April 1 to allow visitors to visit Machu Picchu again.

The track from Cusco to Ollantaytambo was still unpassable, however, forcing travelers from Cusco to travel by bus to Ollantaytambo, where they were able to catch the train for the rest of the journey.  Additionally, many of the train cars were trapped in Cusco, and were not usable. This limited the number of seats and the amount of cargo on the route Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu.  Train schedules were very difficult to coordinate, and travelers were only allowed 5 kg (11 pounds) of luggage in a daypack no larger than 20 liters.  This posed a problem for many travelers who were spending several days at Machu Picchu, or who were coming off an Inca Trail trek.

Additionally, the Hiram Bingham train cars were all stuck in Cusco, forcing Hiram Bingham service to be canceled until the tracks could be repaired.

Now, with the track re-opening all the way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, travel will hopefully return to normal.  Travelers will no longer have to take the bus to Ollantaytambo in order to catch the train to Machu Picchu, and the severe luggage restrictions should be lifted.  Additionally, we expect the Hiram Bingham train to return to service in July.

We will update this blog as we receive more news.

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There is a fascinating article today in the Washington Post today about Randy Borman and the Cofan tribe in Ecuador. Borman, the son of missionaries who was raised with the Cofan in Ecuador, has helped the tribe expand the territory they manage to 6 times what it was in the early 1990’s, from 300 to nearly 1700 square miles today.

In this age when indigenous people in South America (and elsewhere) face continuing encroachment from roads, dams, oil companies, farmers, etc, it is amazing that the Cofan, under Borman’s guidance, have managed to protect their rainforest, and have actually increased the amount of land they manage.

Realizing the only way to thrive, or even survive, is to understand and work with the outside world, the Cofan are embracing education for their children and creating alliances with outside organizations, such as the Chicago Field Museum and various foundations in the USA.

Cofan are sending their children to private schools in Quito and to universities in the US.  This was the path Borman himself followed — born in the jungle, raised hunting and fishing, but studying in Quito and USA. Borman considers himself Cofan, having lived most of his life in the jungle with the tribe.

In the article, Borman “explained that the Cofan see the forest as a ‘product’ that can be sold to the world. ‘That’s what it is — the product is the intact, functioning rain forest,’ he said.”  He is now working on carbon credit plans that will allow wealthy nations to pay the Cofan to protect the rainforest.  In the article Borman says that in the Cofan territory they have zero deforestation and zero damage done to the land.

Having spent a bit of time in the Amazon basin in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia, it is great to hear a positive story about indigenous people in the Amazon.  Most recently I was with the Huaorani tribe, best known from Joe Kane’s excellent book Savages, at the Huaorani Ecolodge. Much of the Huaorani land has been taken over by oil companies and settlers from the highlands, and part of the visit to the lodge includes a canoe journey from pristine jungle to an area decimated by oil development, to show tourists what is happening to the jungle.

The Huaorani have decided that tourism is one of the best ways to earn money while maintaining their traditional lifestyle, and the ecolodge is their tourism venture.  Staying at the lodge is a fantastic insight into how people live in the jungle, and my visit there was one of my favorite trips all time.

We at Detour wholeheartedly support community based tourism projects such as the Huaorani Ecolodge, as it is another way for indigenous groups to have some say and control over their future. We hope all travelers will consider a trip to a community based tourism project so that while they are having an awesome vacation, their trip will also help to protect the way of life of an indigenous group.

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Beautiful day in Cusco

by Kate French on June 18, 2010

Most people come back from Peru wishing they had spent more time in the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco, and I definitely agree with them.  Before any trek, it’s very important to acclimatize to the altitude, but loads of travelers worry that they’ll be bored by having two relatively unscheduled days in Cusco.  However, it’s probably one of the most lovely cities in South America, so don’t fret if you have a few days to chill before rushing up to Machu Picchu.  For proof, check out some photos I’ve recently snapped while wandering the streets of Cusco.

Traditional Bear Costumes

Traditional Bear Costumes

Traditional dress Cusco

Waiting for the parade to start

Waiting for the parade to start

Cathedral in Plaza de Armas

Cathedral in Plaza de Armas

Cusco conversation

Cusco overlook

Cusco overlook

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World Cup fever has hit certain countries in South America in epidemic proportions, causing tour provider’s offices to close during their national team’s matches. Imagine the Super Bowl played during the work week and you might sort of understand how business shuts down during these matches.

You gotta love an event so big that entire countries basically shut down so that everyone can watch a futbol match.  Here at Detour we’ve received notices of office closures from Argentinian and Chilean tour operators during their country’s games. If you are currently traveling in a country whose team is playing, at game time you may as well find a coffee shop, restaurant, or tavern and hunker down to enjoy the game.  What a treat to get to watch a game with the rabid local fans.  Just hope the local team wins!

World Cup fever is likely to linger for some time, as Latin American teams are playing well, and several could play on deep into the tournament. With the USA not likely to go far in the tournament, we are cheering on every Latin American team in the tournament!

We at Detour got into the act this morning with a company World Cup breakfast to watch our US team tie 2-2 with Slovenia.  Foul, are you kidding me? On the US? That should have been a goal and a US victory . . .

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Thinking of cruising the Galapagos Islands, but worried about sea sickness… Take it from someone whose been – and gotten sick – it’s still worth it!

The classic 8-day yacht cruise is a great way to see all the Galapagos Islands has to offer. You see more animals, visit more islands and – on occasion – get to see some whales or dolphins passing by. With all the benefits of a yacht-based tour, it’d be a shame to miss out just because you’re worried about maybe getting seasick.

Some tips for keeping seasickness at bay:

1. Our guide on board the M/Y Letty told us – after fifteen minutes of being on board that we should already be able to tell if we were seasick prone. First mistake, I got competitive. My boss told me stories of being on a fishing boat in Alaska and I thought… awesome! That would be crazy! I could do that! So I ignored the somewhat off feeling I felt in the hopes of discovering my hardcore inner sailor. Three hours later I was not so hardcore.

2. Know your course. With briefings each evening your guide(s) will let you know what to expect. They even told us “Hey, at 4pm after your siesta and before the dingy ride this would be a good time to take a sea sickness pill.” Our boat even had a little candy dish of Dramamine. As long as I remembered to take a pill when they said to, I did fine

3. Over-the-counter Medication: I took Dramamine. I also heard of people using Bonine. The upside to these tablets – they’re easy to get and they worked. Even if I happened to take it a bit late. The downside – you need to remember to take it, which sounds like a no brainer but when your out playing all day it’s easy to forget. Also, they can make you drowsy – even the non-drowsy formulas.

4. Prescriptions: Patches (Scopolamine): These seem to be the way to go. A lot of my shipmates had them. They didn’t feel an inkling of seasick. The small, circular patches are placed inconspicuously behind the ear. They can be worn for up to 3 days (which means much less remembering) and provide time-released doses of the medication. The only downside I see is you have to make a trip to the doctor to get them.

Promethazine (Phenergan). Suppose to be very effective at settling the most violent of sea tummies. Side effects tend to be sleepiness. I get the impression that it’s more of a last resort – nothing else is working drug. And for those troubled few that have problems keeping a pill down they also offer it as a rectal suppository and an injection. Probably not a necessity for Galapagos waters.

5. Natural Remedies: The sea-band is a skinny, wristband that has a plastic stud protruding out of it. The stud is to be placed on the Nei Kuan acupressure point on each wrist. I was skeptical, but being that I worked in health food store and we sold them I had to try it.

When I was actually feeling nauseous they took the edge off. I would not recommend them as a way to ward off feeling sick. But they’re good to have around when you are actually feeling seasick.

Ginger and peppermint are good anit-nausea remedies. You can find them in pill form at health food stores or, if you’re like me, get the little ginger chews (crystallized) – makes a great snack while protecting against nausea :)   They also sell hard candies – just be sure your buying candies that actually use the herb for flavoring and not some phony chemical cocktail.

With so many preventative options available -  that work well for most people – there’s no reason to forgo a destination because of sea travel. Just be prepared.

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If you’re going to spend the money and time it takes to get to the Galapagos Islands - you probably want to spend some effort finding the right tour for you.  Having just spent two weeks in the Galapagos I got to explore firsthand the differences between the classic yacht-based tour and the increasingly popular island-hopping tours.

And while, yes, they share the same destination – the experience of the islands was quite different.

Sun deck at sunrise - M/Y Letty

Sun deck at sunrise - M/Y Letty

Oddly enough, the perks of one tend to be the pitfalls of the other. For instance, a cruise allows you to cover a lot of distance. Therefore, you have the opportunity to see more wildlife, more islands, and more sea-life. This makes for an amazing wildlife experience, but is not the same as total relaxation at a beach hotel.  I felt queasy at times on the boat. Land-based tours, on the other hand, are very relaxing and comfortable, at the expense of seeing some of the wildlife.

On my cruise aboard the Letty, we saw tons of frigate birds, fields of males all puffed red ogling the females flying by and lots of Boobies – footed red and blue – mating, showing each other sticks, fighting… All within arms reach! On the boat we came across a pod of 30-50 dolphins, saw whales off in the distance, and (though extremely rare) had a whale shark swim right underneath us! The experience was one I’ll never forget…

But being on a boat isn’t easy. The National Park has set strict time-lines that the boats – all boats – must follow. You’re going nonstop and, at times, it can feel a bit like being on a high school field trip (a very awesome field trip) with the constant activity, lines, and lots of people in limited space (the boat). And while space wasn’t really that big of an issue, you are forced to be social at meals every day, along with sharing close quarters with your travel mates.

Aventura Lodge - Santa Cruz Island

Aventura Lodge - Santa Cruz Island

A land-based tour, like my Red Mangrove Darwin’s Triangle trip, allows for tons of sprawl space, privacy, and relaxation. You can choose to dine “just the two of us” or with your tour group. You have the opportunity to experience more of the cultural-side of the Galapagos. You can check out a local restaurant for lunch and you have the option for a little nightlife if you so please. There’s no dealing with feeling a bit queasy due to seasickness, and, in general, you’re more comfortable. These tours feel more like a vacation, and you can plan some relaxation days around your excursion days.

On the flip-side, while you still get to see wildlife it is not quite to the same extent. You’ll for sure see sea lions and piles of marine iguanas and the giant tortoises, but no fields of frigates. And the boobies fly by, but they don’t stop by. A lot of the crazy wildlife we’ve come to think of as the Galapagos happens on some of the further out islands. Islands that you’re only going to get to if you go with a yacht-based tour.

Choosing the right trip really means thinking about why you want to go to the Galapagos.  If you’re going for the wildlife, and to see the variation within species on the different islands, I’d choose a yacht trip. But if your idea of vacation is a mix of seeing some wildlife and relaxing in a beach hotel, you might prefer a land-based trip. Either way, it’s hard not to enjoy yourself, and you’ll be glad you visited the Galapagos Islands!

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Machu Picchu has been receiving its steady flow of travelers successfully since April – after January’s heavy rains. However, getting to the ruins involves bussing sections of the journey that used to be by train.

FETRANSA, the rail company in charge of the train system, is working on the restoration of the railway that connects Machu Picchu to Cusco. It is estimated that this section should be completed by June 30th. At this time, the train service to Machu Picchu will be back on track – operating as it did before the massive floods!

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Eric, Letty, Flamingo I in the Galapagos Islands

Eric, Letty, Flamingo I in the Galapagos Islands

New Galapagos Islands departure for solo travlers on the Eric, Letty, Flamingo I yachts February 13-20, 2011!

Ecoventura is offering a designated cruise departure on their flagship Galapagos yachts catering to SOLO Travelers for the first time the week of February 13-20 2011.  This trip is perfect for those who prefer to travel with other single travelers.

They are offering 3 singles, 2 triples and requests for shared rooms on both dolphin and iguana decks.  Best of all, this departure date is on the early bird promotion (5% off)!

Contact Detour for more information!

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You’ve got your sunscreen packed and your hiking boots broken in, but is there anything you’re missing?  Here are some last-minute packing tips I’ve figured out (mostly by learning the hard way!) to consider before your next trip abroad.

1.  Call the issuing bank for your credit/debit cards:  If your bill suddenly shows a lot of charges in another country, most banks see that as suspicious behavior (i.e. identity theft) and are apt to shut down your account in order to protect you.  To avoid this, just give them a ring to let them know where you’re going and how long you’ll be gone.

2. Write down your bank’s 24 emergency number:  I like to write down my bank’s phone number and keep that in a separate place from my wallet, just in case my wallet’s stolen, etc.

3. Bring a water bottle: Yeah, you can buy bottled water when you’re there, but plastic trash is a massive problem in developing countries.  Help out by bringing a nalgene or metal bottle to re-fill –  lots of hotels nowadays have water coolers for that very purpose.

4. Make a copy of your passport and laminate it: This is a really important one, at least the copy of the passport.  If it’s stolen, you will have to provide a copy of the passport to the consulate or else suffer through long days of trying to prove your identity.  I also recommend laminating that extra copy, which is useful if your stuff gets thoroughly soaked

5. Test out your camera and battery re-charger: I recently traveled to Patagonia and discovered, to my horror, that my camera’s battery charger was kaput.  Now I only have 4 photos, sent by kind travelers in my group, of myself in Torres del Paine.  To make things worse, I was posing like an idiot in every one . . . don’t let this happen to you.  I could have saved myself a lot of heartbreak by testing out the charger (oh, and not posing like I was drunk in everyone’s photos).

6.  Pack your most valuable shoes in your carry-on: I’m not saying to lug around your Manolos, but the most valuable shoes for your upcoming trip.  When going to South America, I usually wear my tennis/hiking shoes and carry-on the flip flops.  In the unlikely event that your luggage is lost on your international flight, one really tricky thing to replace while traveling is your footwear.   We once had some Galapagos travelers in this situation who wound up in high heels for most of their tour!

7.  Buy some travel insurance: Remember that obnoxious Icelandic volcano that taught us all the valuable lesson about travel insurance?  Not to terrify anyone about travel (hey, the world’s a crazy place even if you stay home), but natural disasters and political strife can happen anytime.  No one wants to spend a week stuck in Heathrow airport and have to spend an extra $3000 to get home.

8.  Bring a few tasty snacks:  If you’re a total grump without Reeces Pieces, bring along a pack or two.  Believe me, it’s pretty impossible to find your special brand of chocolate 2 days into a Kilimanjaro trek.  Just don’t try to get cheese or fruit through customs, it doesn’t work.

9.  Bring your own small travel alarm clock. The hotel’s alarm clock never works.  Never.  And don’t rely soely on the front desk for a wake-up call, I’ve made that mistake a few too many times!

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The Alta Before the Wreck

The Alta Before the Wreck

In March the beautiful sailing yacht Alta, one of the more famous yachts in the Galapagos Islands, ran aground while entering the harbor at Puerto Ayora and had to be evacuated.  Environmental damage to the Galapagos appeared to be minimal, and no one was injured in the wreck.  Ever since we’ve been waiting for news on the fate of the Alta, with hopes that she would return to service in the Galapagos Islands soon. Sadly, word came today that the Alta is a total loss and will be retired.  Bummer for sailing fans! The Alta was a beautiful boat with a fantastic Galapagos Islands itinerary and service, and she will be missed!

The good news is that Quasar Expeditions will be putting the trimaran Lammer Law back into service in the Galapagos to replace the Alta. We’ll have more information on the Lammer Law’s itinerary and service soon. Check out the message from Dolores Diez at Quasar:

The Lammer Law in the Galapagos Islands

The Lammer Law in the Galapagos Islands

Message from Quasar About the Alta:

It has been a little less than a month and a half since the Alta incident.  When the accident took place we quickly and successfully evacuated all fuel and contaminants from the Alta to avoid harm to the environment.  In addition, we worked closely with Galapagos National Park officials to keep the site of the accident clear of debris.  At this point, the only matter left on the table is the removal of the hull from the grounding site, which is out of our hands and the responsibility of our insurance provider.

From the beginning, we worked together with our insurance company to find the quickest way to refloat the Alta.  Unfortunately, the equipment and experts needed to do so were not readily available in Ecuador and any attempt to remove the Alta otherwise would have caused unnecessary damage to the site and the hull. Unfortunately the delay left the Alta susceptible to further damage by wind, tide and waves.

Subsequently, Hull and Machinery Insurance decided to declare the boat a total constructive loss.  This fact has further delayed the removal, with the result that P&I coverage recently was delegated control over the situation. Going through a salvage bid process has taken more time, resulting in boat undergoing further battering by the sea. The length of these delays resulted in the sea taking a toll, far beyond the original damage, that has now extended to the hull, causing irreparable damage. The vessel is now the property of the insurance company.

We are deeply saddened to report this news and to see our legendary sailing yacht end her days in the Galapagos in such a way. We also understand how disappointing this is to our customers.  We know that our guests look forward to their Galapagos adventures with great excitement and anticipation.

However, we have no intention of letting down our valued guests and we will therefore be offering the Lammer Law as the replacement for the Alta. In some cases we have already successfully moved other guests to both the Grace and Evolution. The Lammer Law already has a strong and positive reputation in the Galapagos and is perhaps the most legendary dive boat and adventure yacht in the Islands.

Based on years of experience we know that the Lammer Law offers an unforgettable experience equal to any in the Galapagos, though different in style from the Alta. We have currently begun refurbishing her to offer a high level of accommodations. Lammer Law will once again cruise her island home in the Galapagos beginning on June 20th, 2010.

Quasar has operated nearly 5,000 successful voyages in the Galapagos and we plan to offer many more to come.

Sincerely,

Dolores Gangotena de Diez
Commercial Vice-president
Quasar Expeditions

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Past client's photo of their guide - Jimmy On Board the Nemo II

Past client's photo of their guide - Guide Jimmy On Board the Nemo II

The Galapagos is all about it’s flora and fauna. Exploring with a quality naturalist guide makes all the difference. And quite frankly, you have to be accompanied by a guide so you ought to care if he/she is a good one.

Yet, guide classifications are not so cut and dry anymore. Originally, guides were classified into 1 of 3 levels. Level 1 representing those that passed the “class” and were certified to Level 3 being those with advanced degrees that could speak up to 2 foreign languages. That system no longer really works as classification courses have not been offered in over 10 years. You may find that your “Level 1″ guide has really been there for 10+ years.

In an effort to find out how guides were classified today, we asked some of our providers. Ecoventura forwarded a great article that provides some insight into finding the right guide. See below:

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Galapagos Guides

When planning a Galapagos cruise holiday, everyone asks about the boat, many ask about the itinerary, few about the guide. And yet, there is arguably no greater influence on the quality of your Galapagos cruise experience than your guide.

As we used to say in guiding circles here in Europe: ‘A bad guide can ruin any tour, a good guide can make any tour great.’ The good news in the Galapagos is that there are stringent controls in place to ensure good standards throughout the guiding community.

Nevertheless, it would be foolish to suggest that all guides are created equal. The question then is, how can you do to give yourself the best chance to explore in the company of a truly inspiring guide?

How do you become a guide?

To become an approved naturalist guide, you have to study, generally under the auspices of the Darwin Foundation. Examinations are delivered by the Galapagos National Park Authority itself.

The training comes from three possible sources: the Catholic University of Quito, the Galapagos national Park Authority and the Ecuadorian Ministry of Tourism.

Studies cover a fairly startling array of topics, relating to the wildlife, conservation, history, geography, geology and environment of the Galapagos and continental Ecuador. Their studies also cover less obvious subjects such as etiquette, ethics, teaching techniques, cartography, wild camping, survival and first aid.

Exams are held roughly every 18 months (there have been 27 exams held since 1975) on each of the main populated islands of the Galapagos archipelago: Santa Cruz, San Cristobal and Isabela.

Participants must score over 80%, from that pool the best 30 scoring candidates qualify as guides.

Beyond guide levels

There is a very logical and sensible seeming progression for guides in the Galapagos Islands. According to latest figures, there are 203 level I, 98 level II and 77 level III guides as well as 38 diving guides.

Level I guides are those who have at least a high school diploma and have passed the Naturalist Guide course.

Level II guides are those who have at least four years’ experience and pass a further examination.

Level III
guides are those who have degrees or masters in tourism or biology and related subjects who speak at least two foreign languages and pass a further examination.

On the face of it, most reasonable people would assume that a level III guide is better than a level I guide.

However, it has been nearly 10 years since a level II exam has been held. It is nearly 20 years since the last level III exam took place. In truth therefore, all you can say with absolute confidence about level III guides is that they have been around a long time.

Given that the opportunity for guides to move between levels is effectively non-existent, it is crucial to look beyond the numbers.

Eyes and ears of the National Park

You can only enter the bounds of the Galapagos National Park if you accompanied by an officially qualified guide. The system of guides is an integral part of the work of the park authorities.

A guide’s studies do not end with their exams by any stretch of the imagination. Once qualified, they have to continue to attend seminars and workshops as well as keep up to date with the latest materials and information.

Nor does the supervision end there. As well as the responsibility to care for and educate their guests, guides have a responsibility to submit a report to the Galapagos park authorities after each and every tour they lead.

The report covers the number of tourists in the group, the activities, landing sites and any observations made during their visits as well as any complaints.

It is this constant and comprehensive reporting which allows the National Park Authority to both monitor guide performance and to keep track of changes across the archipelago.
If you think it sounds like mere lip service, you should check out their published monitoring data http://www.galapagospark.org/turismo_monitoreo.html (Spanish only) they cover erosion, compacting, contamination, introduced species, even the number of other visitors encountered.

Of course, these reports also give an insight into the performance of the guides themselves. Bear in mind that guides have to periodically re-sit their guiding exams otherwise their licence expires.

Choose the right boat, you’ll get the right guide

Whilst you can fairly safely say that a level III or level II guide has a great deal of experience, you cannot safely say that a level I guide does not have the same level of experience.

You can quite easily find a situation whereby a talented level I guide found themselves gainfully employed from day one after their graduation. They will never have had reason to attempt to add a stripe to their sleeve.

They will be employed by the best boats at the best rates and will live very well by their profession.

At the same time, a less talented guide may have found that work was less easy to come by. They were therefore motivated to go for level II or level III qualification in order to get work on those boats which advertise only ever to use level III guides – a relatively far smaller pool of guides and therefore a less competitive job market.

The truth of the matter is that a good boat owner is going to know the value of great guides. It doesn’t make sense for them to put together a wonderful boat, delicious food and then nickel and dime you on the guide.

On this basis, I would personally choose a level I guide employed by a good boat as a safer bet to deliver an outstanding Galapagos cruise experience.

Conclusion

If you are on a budget boat, you should expect a budget guide. If you are on a first class boat then you can reasonably expect to be led by a first class guide.

In all honesty, pick your boat and pick your itinerary carefully. Ask questions about the guide but don’t treat their ‘level’ as indicative of much beyond their age. Do ask about their experience, who they are, why the boat operators choose to work with them.

Bear in mind that guides are freelancers. The best boats have a select pool of guides since many of the best guides choose to work part time.

A boat operator may well not be able to tell you who will guide you months ahead of time. You can still ask them to give you the story of, say, two guides they work with regularly.

If you are being nosey, you can find out what level they are afterwards!

Directory of guides, split by level http://www.galapagospark.org/turismo_guias_naturalistas_directorio.html

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21No matter how stunning the scenery or wonderful the weather if you aren’t physically prepared for your trek you probably won’t enjoy it as much. Though treks vary greatly, here are some staple guidelines for any multi-day hike. We’ll leave the specifics of conditioning up to you.

1. Cut your toenails! One of those easy things to forget that will haunt you all trip. The slightest unkempt little piggy can become a huge annoyance 3 days into hiking. On the other hand, be careful not to go too short!

2. Gear up. Finding quality gear means enjoying the hike much more. When I first moved out to Montana I was the queen of cotton layers. After sweating to death and then freezing to death I finally schlepped out for some decent sportswear – much nicer.

3. Train in the gear you plan to wear on your trek. Maybe not 6 months beforehand, but definitely a few months prior. Especially those hiking boots. Break those in ahead of time. Working your gear in allows you to address any issues that come up ahead of time.

4. Know what is expected of you and plan that into your training:TR11 Towards Culebrillas

- How much weight are you expected to carry? Lead up to that much as you train – using the backpack you intend to use.

- How long will you be trekking each day? It’s a good idea if you will be trekking 6-7 hours a day to plan consecutive days of longer walks/workouts/etc. Walking for an hour a day is something, but it hardly compares to full day of strenuous hiking.

- What are weather conditions expected to be like? Weather in the mountains is anything but predictable. Prepare for the unexpected. It is miserable to be cold and/or wet because you heard “it was the dry season”.

- How much elevation gain? If you live in a non-mountainous area find a way to simulate uphill hiking… whether it be high-rise stair climbing, the local sledding hill, or your gym’s StairMaster.

5.  Plan training into your day. Besides setting aside your “work out” time, incorporate activities into everyday life. Decide to walk to work. If that’s not an option, bike to work, park a ways away when driving, get off a stop early for buses or trains, walk during your breaks, stop watching t.v. (that’s my own thing – always feel like you do a lot more when the t.v. doesn’t suck you in). The more active you become, naturally, the more natural hiking hours a day will feel.

6. Cross train. It breaks up the monotony of your work outs, balances, and prevents injury from overuse. Go on a bike ride, play a game of tennis, take a yoga class, swim. You still get a workout, you develop other muscles and “rest” those crucial muscles.

7. Rest. There is such a thing as too much of a good thing and overworking yourself could lead to an early burn out, injury, or pain on the trail. In even the most intense training programs, one day of rest is critical to it’s success and longevity.

8. Fueling up. From on trail pick me ups to meals the week before, a healthy diet makes a difference. And learning how to properly re-fuel while exercising takes some time to get right. For instance, waiting until you are thirsty means your already dehydrated and chugging a bunch of water – while totally satisfying – will leave you bloated and perhaps a bit woozy.

Choquequirao desde Usnu 9. Allow plenty of time to acclimatize. Many treks involve traveling to high altitude places. At the very least, allow a full day, preferably 2-4 days, with no plans. Rest, restrain from physical activity, drink water (at least 1 liter per day), don’t drink alcohol, and eat small portions of food – mostly carbohydrates.

10. Take ‘Er Easy. First day out, no doubt your excited. That doesn’t mean you need to race your porter up the mountain. Pace yourself!

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AP Photo - Rio Mudslides

AP Photo - Rio Mudslides

RIO DE JANEIRO – Heavy rains that started Monday left the city flooded by Tuesday morning. Rains continued throughout Tuesday into Wednesday morning. A brief respite this morning has been shadowed by forecasts predicting more rain to come.

Death toll is up to 110, with at least 60 people confirmed missing. Potential mudslides threaten up to 10,000 residents in the city. Mayor Eduardo Paes said he will be strict about relocating in-danger families – most of which are located in the city slums. Death toll is predicted to rise if rains do not let up.

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Albatross Courtship Dance

Albatross Courtship Dance

I watched a BBC/National Geographic documentary on the Galapagos and I might have actually shed a tear when the Albatross meet to mate. It’s super romantic! They stay with the same partner their whole mating lives, meeting in the Galapagos each April, May, and June. The men typically arrive first and patiently await their female partners.

When choosing their life-long mates, the giant sea birds really spend their time finding that “perfect someone”.  Courtship can involve hour-long dances several times a day, in which each pair faces each other and performs a set of synchronized behaviors such as – what looks like – sword fighting with their bills, making clackity noises by opening and closing their beaks quickly, prancing in place, and calling out to the sky. The dance, as with most courtship dances, is definitely a sight to see. I don’t know of anyone who doesn’t get a little chuckle out of the behavior.

Looking at all the wildlife the Galapagos has to offer, the Waved Albatross was not one that stood out to me. The vibrancy of the blue-footed boobies and bright red sally light-foot crabs grabbed my initial attention. But after watching this whole series on the islands, it was the Waved Albatross that stole my heart and I would give just about anything to see their mating ritual up close and personal.

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