Whether you’re leaving the kids behind for the first time or you’re Ms./Mr. Independent world traveler, its a good idea to know your resources for getting in touch once in country.
First and foremost, international calls follow a set pattern:
International calling prefix or exit code (to establish an international connection) + country code + city code + number
For example, if calling from the United States to Cusco, Peru and vice versa:
011 (exit code in the U.S.) + 51 (Peru country code) + 84 (Cusco city code) + number
00 (exit code for Peru) + 1 (U.S. country code) + 312 (Chicago city code) + number
Tons of websites exist with information on how to call from here to there. I found www.howtocallabroad.com to be very user friendly, allowing you to choose the country you are calling from and where you want to call – with city codes to follow. The site countrycode.org allows you to choose a country and then view all city codes. The sites are endless.
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Internet connection provides a very convenient and inexpensive way to touch base with not-so-pressing updates or concerns. And internet cafes are all over the place in many cities. For those that really get into planning, www.cybercafes.com provides a database of cafes in well over 100 countries.
For the internet savvy, get you and those you can’t live without a Skype account. You can make free Skype-to-Skype calls and pretty cheap international calls to landlines and cellphones. For about $13 a month you can make unlimited international calls to landlines in up to 40 countries. Connection to cellphones comes at an additional fee, but you could always opt for a pay as you go plan. Definitely a cheep and accessible way for travelers to connect with those at home.
Calling Cards work nicely if you know you will have ready access to a phone and/or prefer the tele to the computer. Plus, you can nab a card almost anywhere. It is a good idea to buy your card in the country you will be making your calls from because there can be issues… with, say, a U.S. international calling card making international calls from Ecuador – or so we’ve been told.
You can purchase the card ahead of time on sites like cheapcard.org or www.callingcards.com. Click where you will be calling from and where you want to call and voila – a list of cards to choose from. Some downsides to using a card – often hotels will charge a connection fee even if you are using a card and often cards themselves have hidden “connection fees”. Still, they’re cheaper than a direct long-distance call.
For the cellphone dependent and those that need to be able to be reached at any given time – there are options. You can actually rent-a-phone, buy a country-specific or international sim card, or – if you travel a lot – buy an international phone plan. A cellphone, while spendier, provides access for both parties and is the most instant source of communication. You could check with your phone provider to see what international calling plans they have or www.cellularabroad.com offers a variety of different options (as listed above) for international cellphone use.
On the flip side, if you doubt you’ll need immediate phone use, many cities do have calling stations, similar and at times included with internet cafes, where you can go to make a long distance call if something comes up.
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It’s also good sense for folks back home to know how to get a hold of you if need be. Make a list of the hotels you will be staying at with their contact information. If you’re traveling with a specific tour operator, be sure to get an emergency contact number or email so that family members can get directly to someone that knows about your trip and how to get a message to you. And, finally, this is going to kill me to say, but… occasionally check your email. Literally, less than a minute and you’ll know all is well.
For many, part of the novelty of traveling lies in getting away from the constant contact of everyday life. I get that. Nonetheless, things come up and sometimes you do need to maintain contact. It’s good to know your options.
A Ceviche Sampler.
I have to admit something embarrassing. The first time I journeyed to Latin America (to Peru specifically), I expected Peruvian cuisine to be more or less just like Mexican food. It didn’t occur to me that there are probably massive cultural, agricultural and cuisine differences, given that Lima and Mexico City are 2,600 miles apart. So I was completely unprepared for the extremely novel, exciting, and bizarre foods that awaited me. In order to save you that embarassment, I have listed a small sample of (mostly) uniquely Peruvian food you should expect to encounter while trekking through the Andes or sitting on a beach.
1. Ceviche: Probably my favorite of all Peruvian dishes. Raw fish, marinated in fresh lime juice and spices.
2. Cuy: A much more appetizing name than fried guinea pig. They do the entire thing, stuffed, leaving the head and little claws. A true Andean classic and surprisingly tasty.
3. Lomo Saltado: Beef tenderloin sauteed with onions, tomatoes, peppers and spices. Served with the usual french fries and rice. Found everywhere.
4. Chifa: This is Chinese food in Peru and you’ll find tons of Chifa restaurants in every city. It’s more than fried rice, because the dishes have Peruvian flair, definitely worth trying.
5. Pachamanca: Only found in Andean communities, this meal’s preparation is quite unique. A mixture of meat, potatoes, corn, tamales and spices are baked together over a fire and is covered by large stones. The origins of this meal come from pre-Hispanic times, so it’s a true classic.
Plus, I recommend you wash down these dishes with a classic Peruvian beverage.
A tasty Pisco Sour
1. Cusqueña: Each city has it’s own brewery and it’s definitely a matter of community pride. For instance, if someone asks if you prefer “Cusqueña or Arequipeña”, you should always answer that you prefer the beer of the city you’re in. Personally though, I really did like Cusqueña best.
2. Pisco Sour: This classic drink is made with Peruvian brandy (Pisco), raw egg, sugar and key lime juice. Sounds gross, but it’s actually ridiculously tasty. Don’t leave Peru without having one (or 8).
3. Chica: You’ll be lucky to find authentic Chica unless you’re staying with a family living in the countryside. This is a fermeted mixture liquor, sort of like beer or hard apple cider, with a pretty low alcohol content. Tradtionally, it’s fermented by someone moistening the maize in their mouth and adding it to the mixture. Not recommended for squimish travelers, but a must for those seeking an something out of the ordinary.
* Photos courtesy of Wikipedia
Metropolitan Touring Update:
ETRANSA, the company in charge of repairing the damaged railway segments between the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo) and Machu Picchu, issued a statement announcing that works along the Piscacucho – Machu Picchu railroad are going on as planned and that they expect to have trains running by March 29th 2010. This is some days ahead of April 1st 2010; the target date set by the Ministry of Commerce and Tourism.
The soon to be restored access to Machu Picchu will require a 50 minute bus ride from the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo station) up to Piscacucho (Km.82) followed by an 80 minute train ride to Machu Picchu train station (Aguas Calientes). This bus-train combined service will be provided by PeruRail, who announced today that they will very soon provide details about this service (rates, timetables, etc.).
The Hiram Bingham deluxe train cars will not be available until the beginning of June and any existing Hiram Bingham bookings between April 1st and June 1st, will have to be reprogrammed to the Vistadome train service.
It’s very important to mention that with Machu Picchu closed an important portion of February and March bookings have been cancelled. However, most guests decided to continue their trips to Peru and to experience many other amazing destinations, such as Lake Titicaca, the Colca Canyon, Northern Peru, the Jungle in Puerto Maldonado, an Amazon river cruise, among other magical Peruvian highlights. And we are now receiving very positive feedback and excellent reviews from them all, which confirms that Peru is much, much more than just Machu Picchu.
We all know the biggies to pack– camera, undies, sunscreen. But it’s the small, multi-purpose items that separate the pros from the amateurs.
1. Plastic zip-lock bags
Not just for getting your liquids through security, these babies come in handy when you least expect it. Caught in a sudden downpour, the ziplock will keep your camera and bills dry. Bring four or five — of course, these should be re-used ones from home or ones you plan on re-using more.
2. Large thin scarf
Maybe this one is just for the ladies, but this simple piece of cloth has proven extremely useful for me. It’s served as a fashion accessory, pillow case, eye mask, and belt. Open-minded, fashionable men can also make use of this great invention. If you opt for it’s larger cousin, the sarong, you have an instant beach towel or dress for the daring.
3. Shampoo
Most people bring this, but maybe you’re not aware of its full capacity. You can use this as laudry detergent for hand washables, body wash, or hand soap.
4. Small coin purse
You don’t want to be fumbing through a big purse or silly looking money belt when paying for a quick cup of coffee. A small coin purse is easy to carry, discreet and handy.
5. Re-Usable Water Bottle
While you won’t be filling up from the sink in many countries, several hotels, lodges and hostels have filtered water available for filling up your bottles. The metal ones are better for you (no leaking plastic), plus they look slick.
6. Copy of your passport, emergency number for your credit card, and emergency numbers to reach family/friends back home.
It’s surprising how often we forget to jot down these digits and carry around a passport copy. If your critical stuff gets lost or stolen, it’s great to have these back ups.
7. Dental Floss
Gum health is important, plus there are a plethora of alternative uses for this dainty string. Laundry line, emergency shoe lace, hair tie . .. the list goes on.
8. Drawstring bag (preferably with two straps)
If you’re not doing any serious backpacking, a small drawstring bag you can carry on your back will be useful. Plus, it takes up as much room as a tee-shirt in your duffle bag. I don’t love these for wandering around in a city (can’t drape an arm over it for extra security), but it’s nice for a walk in the country or bringing necessary items to a beach.
9. City Shoes
I’m not talking heels or designer loafers, but having an option other than your hiking boots or flip flops is really valuable. I have a pair of black cloth flats that look polished enough for a nice dinner, dance club, and walking through an art museum. This isn’t necessary if you’re going spending all your time in the rainforest, but if you spend any time in the city, you’ll be glad you don’t look like you’re out on a safari.
Wow, more bad news out of Peru as heavy rains returned a few days ago causing flooding and landslides in the Sacred Valley. Most recently affected is Pisaq, where floods and landslides have taken several lives and damaged many homes.
Currently the road from Cusco to Pisaq is blocked by rocks and mud and is impassable. So, for now, access to this region is not possible, and the Sacred Valley can’t be visited. Hopefully the rains will stop and the roads will be repaired soon. We send our best wishes to the people of the Sacred Valley, and hope there is no more flooding there.
More to come as we learn more details.
http://www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/db900SID/VVOS-837QUW?OpenDocument
Update from Metropolitan Touring
The Galapagos Islands – A tsunami alert was issued by the Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) on Saturday, February 27th morning for all of the Pacific Ocean as a response to the strong earthquake that hit Chile. Vessels temporarily broke from their scheduled itineraries until the PTWC confirmed that there was no risk.
The earthquake related wave, in the end, was only 0.35 m or 1.2 feet at 9:42 AM local time). At this time all is normal in the Galapagos Islands.
Floods in Machu Picchu, earthquakes in Chile – want to know the best way help out… don’t change your travel plans.
Beyond the eye of environmental wreckage, these natural disasters can wreak havoc on regional and even national economies as tourism often plays a critical role in sustaining economic development. Just the other day, speaking with one of Detour’s partners in Cusco, we were told that Cusco is as quiet as they have ever seen it. With all the local businesses in Cusco that rely on the steady-flow of visitors Machu Picchu brings, the floods and temporary shut-down of Machu Picchu have seriously stunted the economic viability of the Cusco region.
A recent article in the Peruvian Times paints a stark picture of just how destructive these floods have been for Peru’s national economy. Damages from the flood are estimated to cost 800 million to 1 billion soles (about $280 million – $340 million) to repair. On top of this, the country’s tourism industry is losing a million dollars a day due to travel cancellations. Being that “tourism is one of Peru’s largest sources of revenue and Machu Picchu its main attraction”, the country has invested everything it can to speed the recovery process and re-open Machu Picchu.
And in Chile, the international exposure of the quake, which naturally zoomed in on the worst effected areas – mainly that of Concepcion and the Bio Bio Region about 320 miles south of Santiago – can be confusing to those on the outside. How much of Chile is still accessible?
Chile’s main tourist attractions are by and large intact. In fact, some of our own clients arrived in Chile yesterday for a Patagonia trek. Aside from some delays at the Santiago Airport and a few areas in Chile’s wine country, travelers shouldn’t expect to experience many setbacks. Yet, in browsing the internet I found a blog on a wine touring site expressing concern about the impact this disaster will have on the wine tourism industry for 2010. And, as in Peru, they acknowledged the importance of tourism in their country
Tourism over the last few years has been a great way for normal Chileans to make a living, so i would encourage people to come and enjoy great people, food and wine, while supporting Chile’s fastest growing industry.
Greg, the owner and founder of Detour, recently recalled his time as a river guide in Chile, remarking that him and his fellow guides were treated like royalty, stating that were they back in the states they wouldn’t even have been able to get into some of the places they stayed. So while, we may not value a lot of the tourism jobs offered in the U.S. this is very different in other countries where tourism plays a more substantial role. A good guide can make as much as, say, a doctor in the country would. And don’t quote me on that, but you get the point. They do very well for themselves.
For this reason, calamities like the floods of Machu Picchu and the tourist dry spells they create can impact the livelihoods of the local people longer than the initial blow of the disaster. So in all honest, continuing to travel after a disaster strikes, is one of the best ways to put your dollar to work.
Click here for great alternatives to Machu Picchu.
Metropolitan Touring sends an update for Santiago airport. A contingency plan is in place. The first phase, from March 3rd – 5th, institutes the use of a tent for departing passengers. Gradually, domestic flights will depart from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM and international flights will depart from 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM.
All international flights arriving to Chile prior to March 5th will land at another domestic airport that is capable of carrying out immigration, SAG and Customs. Arrival flights after March 5th will be able to arrive into the Santiago Airport. All arrival procedures will be performed in a tent located in the western part of the air terminal.
Cascada Expeditions – our main Chile travel operator – continues to update their site with new information as it comes in. Most of their trips are operating as normal, with the only exception being access in and out of the Santiago Airport.
See below for their updates for March 2nd:
For those who asked us on how to send donations to help alleviating suffering in the earthquake affected zones these links can help:
- Chilean Red Cross: Taking care of the victims and assisting the Chilean health system in the area. http://www.cruzroja.cl/noticias/noticia_413.php
- Un Techo para Chile: Local organization focused on building semi-permanent shelters for those who lost their homes. http://www.untechoparachile.cl/static/comoColaborar/donations.html
If these pages do not open properly please be patient and try later as many people are trying to donate.
- Tue, March 2, 4:20 PM The Chilean National Aeronautical Authority announced that large tented structures have already been erected at the Santiago International Airport to facilitate passenger transit, which allowed gaining 1 day to re-initiate normal operations. http://www.cefaa.cl/noticias/ver_noticia.asp?id=2-3-2010-785
- Tue, March 2, 3:20 PM Air connection problems in Santiago are improving and we are expecting normal aeronautical operations from next Monday 8 March.
- Tue, March 2, 12:20 PM Cascada Expediciones & EcoCamp Patagonia travel services are running normally and safe. Yesterday our trekking classic 7day Torres del Paine W Trek started as scheduled and so will do this Wednesday the 5day Short-W Trek and the 9day Torres del Paine Circuit.
- Tue, March 2, 11:00 AM Phone lines at our Santiago main office are now working normally.
Metropolitan Touring sends an update of the situation in Chile. The worst damages were accrued in the Bio Bio Region (515 km south of Santiago) near the city of Concepcion. “Chile’s solid infrastucture, strict building laws and long-history dealing with seismic activity has prevented the country from a major catastrophe.” Yet, Santiago did experience effects from Saturday’s earthquake and some buildings endured minor damage.
The Santiago Airport, in Chile’s capital city, the only international airport in Chile, is closed due to security reasons. The quake caused damages in the passenger terminal and all the special equipment inside to fail. The DGAC (Dirección General de Aereonautica Civil) has authorized the arrival of domestic and international flights that were re-directed to other airports and passengers have been arriving to Santiago. The departures of International and domestic are still not implemented, and will be analyzed today [March 1st]. Also, a special team is helping with arrival flights that [are dealing with] immigration and other procedures in other city destinations in Chile. – Metropolitan Touring
No touristic destinations were harmed – San Pedro de Atacama, Easter Island, Puerto Varas and Patagonia are all operating as normal.
Image From Mi Chacra - Porter's preparing load
Last week Detour traveled to a nearby town to see the documentary “Mi Chacra” – set in a small farming village in southern Peru, the film follows one man from planting season to harvest. And depicts some of his time as a porter on the Inca Trail.
Captivated more by the beauty of this man’s life than the stunning footage of all these places we send people (which was also super cool), I was surprised to hear how conflicted Feliciano was regarding the Quechua life he had grown into and the pressure he felt to change that for his son. I left unsure whether this was because his culture had told him that this life was “lesser than” or if his was an internal pressure to provide the “best” for his son. Maybe a bit of both.
This prompted a bit of research. Initially, I wanted to uncover the true nature of being a porter on the Inca trail. How much have the relatively recent protections improved conditions? What laws are in place and how are they regulated? What are own provider’s porter policies? – And though this is still important to me (check back in a week), I also stumbled on this very interesting case studies review that discusses literacy development with indigenous communities. Kind of out there – but many of the studies focused on the Quechua culture within Peruvian society.
In thumbing through, I realized there is very much an acknowledged pressure for Quechua peasants to adopt “linguistic and cultural patterns” in order to gain positive social status. In fact, “the current social trend [in 1996] suggests that those who stay in the rural spaces [where Feliciano lived] are losers; that they only stay because they have failed in trying to migrat” (Chirinos, p 255). With a history of being treated as second-class citizens, Feliciano’s internal struggle begins to make more sense.
However, in trying to offer a better quality of life for his son, I wonder what will be lost. Living in Montana with a strong background in ranching and farming, self-sufficiency and hard work are significant values for many that live here. I watched this small, close-knit community come together to work their land and I was envious. I often feel we’ve lost a sense of community in much of the U.S. For being such a diverse country we still operate under very ethnocentric views. And we’ve gotten so far away from our food sources that we have to teach our children that carrots do not come from the supermarket, but come from the earth.
I watched Feliciano’s life on screen and believed there is much we (Westerner’s) could learn from the small, farming Quechua communities in rural Peru. In general, you should see the film. And if you are planning an Inca Trail trek, take some time to get to know your guides and porters. They are as much a part of the ancient trail as the stone itself.
Before I reveal the best price for a Peru trek, I need to explain a concept I’ve been mulling over recently. When we think of the “best” rate or price for something, are we actually thinking about the lowest price? But maybe those words shouldn’t be interchangable, especially when we’re talking about something we really want to work well.
When people ask me for the best price on a four day trek in Peru, I usually say it’s about $500 per person- I consider this the lowest cost for a decent trip. This would be like a last-minute sale. And at this price you’re paying for the basics, but you can upgrade a bit (like getting a private departure or hiking on your ideal dates).
However, reading through travel blogs and forums, you’ll find loads of people bragging about rock bottom prices for their treks. This week I came across some surprising readers’ comments on the New York Times travel section. In response to an article about the places to see in Peru, someone suggested doing the 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu because “[it's the] best $150 you’ll ever spend.”
Sounds like a great price at first, but not once you break it down. A five-day trek at $150 means you’re spending $30 a day. That certainly wouldn’t pay for three decent meals a day, entrance to Machu Picchu, and a living wage for your guide or porters. In fact, that probably wouldn’t pay for a mule and a guide. Not to mention that it definitely wouldn’t cover your transportation back to Cusco or to Machu Picchu at the end of your trek. Wow. Sounds like an awesome trip.
Think about it like this: If someone offered you a Ferrari for $20, you’d probably wonder if the car used to be a meth lab or if it was stolen or if it would just fall apart in 5 minutes. Because when it comes to a car, you’d want it to be reliable, legal and safe, and that comes at a certain cost. So when we think about booking a trip, we should probably apply the same logic. You especially want a trek to be well organized, safe, and fun.
I believe that you can save money in all sorts of ways when you’re traveling. Eating delicious street food or sleeping in a simple hostel are excellent ways to save dollars. But your trek? I have friends who went on cheap treks where they ran out of food or the guides had no emergency medical kit. Now I’m all for looking around for deals and comparing prices, but it’s smart to know what prices are too good to be true.
Workers repairing the track to Machu Picchu.
FETRANSA, the company in charge of repairing the train tracks from Pisacucho to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes), issued a very positive statement this morning that the repair work is going very well, and the work could be completed BEFORE April 1!
This report comes from our Peru partners Andean Adventures, Inkanatura Travel, and Metropolitan Touring. Inkanatura points out that although work is ahead of schedule, it is still dependent on weather, and delays could occur. They suggest not planning to visit Machu Picchu until after April 7. I feel even that is cutting it a bit close, and suggest postponing your trip until May or later to be safe.
The train track has already been repaired from kilometer 82, in Piscacucho, to kilometer 90. The track was moved several meters towards the hill in some stretches and the embankment has been repaired and gabion and stone walls are being built. Only 10 kilometers of track still need to be repaired so that the stretch Aguas Calientes (kilometer 110) – Piscacucho (kilometer 82) is ready. If good weather continues, this could be completed sooner than expected.
Once this section is repaired, tourists will once again be able to travel to Machu Picchu from Pisacucho. This would involve traveling by bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, then by bus to Pisacucho (50 minutes), before boarding the train for the 70-80 minute train ride to the town below Machu Picchu.
The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu will not reopen until the train service is operational again, so the Inca Trail is closed for now and permits are not being sold for March trek dates.
Metropolitan Touring also reports that Peru Rail is having trouble structuring the Hiram Bingham – Vistadome hybrid service, and this service is now unlikely to operate. The Hiram Bingham cars are stuck in Cusco, and can’t get to Pisacucho to operate on the route to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes). Peru Rail had said they might be able to offer the Hiram Bingham service to Machu Picchu using the Vistadome cars, but this now seems unlikely. The Hiram Bingham train won’t be able to operate until the tracks between Pisacucho and Ollantaytambo are repaired, sometime around the first of June. So, travelers should instead plan to use the Vistadome or Backpacker trains until June.
A few days ago I returned from a vacation in the Baja peninsula, traveling for the first time in a while as a tourist instead of for work. Of course, once I’ve begun learning about sustainable tourism practices (and unsustainable practices as well), it’s impossible to ignore them on any type of trip.
While hiking outside of Todos Santos, I began chatting with our guide about the challenges of the tourism industry in southern Baja.
Beach outside of Todos Santos
Our guide told us that it was a community effort to keep their town, and the surrounding area, safe from the unmitigated growth you would find in Cabo San Lucas. As we reached the hilltop, overlooking the beach, we saw 70 miles of uninterrupted coastline stretching to the horizon without one high-rise in sight. According to our guide, this was not an easy struggle as many outside developers were eying this pristine beach. At this point, the local community has successfully stopped real estate development that would endanger their ecologically sensitive coastline, but it’s an ongoing effort.
Another problem local operators faced was capacity building. Oftentimes, international travel companies would book tours and the local guide would have to look like they worked for outside company. When the tourist left and reviewed the tour, the review reflected the outside travel company instead of the local operator. So if that international travel company decides to move on, the local operator has no reputation, despite having run high quality trips. This practice makes it difficult for the small local operators to stay around.
Local businesses keep jobs and money in the town’s economy; not to mention that they care personally about the development in their area, so they’re more apt to stay involved in environmental issues.
This testimony from a local guide made it real to me: Every destination in the world deserves the benefits of fair trade travel. Our travel dollars should help a community build local businesses and keep the environment safe from reckless development.
Stories like these convince me that promoting fair trade travel is more important each year. We think of environmentally sustainable practices and capacity building for local buisnesses when we buy fair trade coffee. Hopefully, we can start to apply the same logic when booking vacations.
Repairing the railroad to Machu Picchu at Km 109.5
We haven’t received a lot of news about Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail this week, but the most recent reports are that the Peruvian Minister of Transportation, Mr. Enrique Cornejo, has confirmed that train service to Aguas Calientes / Machu Picchu will resume April 1. Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail will only reopen when the train service is operational, so they remain closed until April 1 (or whenever the train is ready).
The train will only run from Pisacucho at Km 82 to Aguas Calientes, as the track from Ollantaytambo to Pisacucho won’t be repaired until about June 1.
The route to Machu Picchu will be:
Cusco – Olantaytambo by bus (90 minutes)
Continue by bus on to Piscacucho, (50 minutes)
Board the train to Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu (70-80 minutes)
By June 1, or sometime in early June, the tracks between Ollantaytambo and Pisacucho should be repaired and train journeys from Cusco to Machu Picchu will resume operations.
One issue is that the Hiram Bingham train cars were in Cusco when the track was damaged, and they are trapped there until the railroad is repaired between Ollanataytambo and Pisacucho. Thus, the Hiram Bingham train won’t operate until June. In the meantime, a temporary Hiram Bingham/Vistadome train will run with some of the services and features of the Hiram Bingham train, but using the Vistadome cars.
Repairs at Km 106 on the railway to Machu Picchu
Leveling the railroad bed at Km 109.8, on the way to Machu Picchu
The much touted emergency “back” route to Machu Picchu, via road to Santa Maria, Santa Teresa, and the hydroelectric station, then by train to Aguas Calientes, is also not open at this time. The railroad to the hydro station has been repaired, but the road is still out somewhere along the way to the hydro station. Work is ongoing, but won’t be done for at least a few weeks. Even when completed, it appears that Machu Picchu won’t be re-opened until April 1 at the earliest. This back route is a very rough road that takes at least 7 hours, so it is not suitable for most people wanting to visit Machu Picchu.
Finally, although there were a number of rumors flying about that helicopters would be allowed to transport tourists to and from Machu Picchu, this is not true. The National Institute of Culture (INC) of Peru has made it very clear that tourist visits to Machu Picchu by helicopter are not authorized. In a press release in early February the Peruvian agency declined the request of the Regional Directorate of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Cusco (DRCETC) to allow the use of helicopters for tourism to Machu Picchu. “The only helicopter operations that have been approved and remain in place are for the attention and care supply town of Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu), as a result of the emergency caused by natural phenomena,” the statement said.
The DRCETC had asked the INC to authorize a small flow of tourists to the Inca monument through helicopter flights (about 210 visitors per day), but the INC opposed this proposal considering that it does not ensure the evacuation of travelers by alternate routes in case of rough weather. “We are aware of the detriment in the income level that these natural events have caused in the area, but we must not forget that our primary responsibility is to safeguard the life and physical integrity of visitors,” the statement added.
So, there you have it. Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed until April 1, or whevenever the train service is able to operate again.
Keep in mind, Peru is still very worth visiting even without a trip to Machu Picchu. Cusco and the Sacred Valley are filled with Inca ruins, history, and culture, and there is plenty to see and enjoy in the area.
Amazonas Explorer débuts two new mountain biking expeditions: Single Track Heaven & Back Roads of the Andes! I recently snagged myself a Rocky Mountain Fusion – my first ever mountain bike. Not the most fancy bike on the market, but definitely the nicest thing I’ve ever owned… a very satisfying check off the “needed gear” list. Ahhh!
After a week of owning my beautiful bike, I find these two beauties from Amazonas. Being that its winter in Montana and the hilly streets of Helena are glazed in ice, I catch myself drifting off to quiet (and snow-free) dirt roads high in the Peruvian Andes.
Lake Titicaca
The Back Roads of the Andes thirteen-day journey starts on the shores of Lake Titicaca and veers north to Cusco on rarely used dirt roads and pack-trails. Visit quaint colonial towns and small mountain villages, stroll through vibrant indigenous markets, explore ancient Incan ruins, even stay the night at an alpaca breeding center. Way off the beaten path, this challenging ride offers sweeping altiplano views with crystal clear streams, vast lakes, cactus forests and out of this world rock formations, as well as, a chance to get to know the local Andean people… whom bikes are the preferred form of transportation!
Alpacas
Ending with a guided tour of Machu Picchu’s famous ruins – one of the new 7 Wonders of the World – and the chance to experience some of Cusco’s happening night-life, this trip offers the perfect combination of Peru’s must-see’s and a fascinating look into some of their unsung treasures.
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By mid-morning and a half a pot of coffee later, visions of their Single Track Heaven trek start creeping in. In similar fashion to the Back Roads tour, this trip still offers classic Peru experiences with an optional visit to infamous Machu Picchu and nights in Cusco. Yet, it offers even the most extreme mountain bike enthusiasts a chance to see the real Peru – off the beaten “Gringo trail” onto some of the best cross country and downhill single track on the planet (so says Amazonas).
Hacienda Marcabamba
Using a converted colonial building in the Sacred Valley – Hacienda Marcabamba – as the base for this nine-day mountain biking dream, you can hunker in for a bit and explore the local area – enjoy locally produced meals, explore rarely visited ruins and artisan markets or mosey on down to the local spa/bar to settle down after all the adrenaline-packed days.
The rides offer a mix of dirt roads, donkey paths, mind-blowing single tracks (largely downhill or flat) and a chance to hone your step jumping on original Inca trails. Take in the World class Mega – Avalanche Downhill course, a true wilderness ride to Huchuy Quosqo, the classic Maras to Moray saltpan ride and the very best of local single track in Cusco itself (plus plenty more). There is something for everyone to enjoy and daily rides will be tailored to the individual skills of the group. A great adventure!
Mega Avalanche Downhill Course
Here is an update on how you can help Peru flooding victims in Peru from the South American Explorers Club:
HOW TO HELP – Many of you have asked how you could help the victims of the devasting floods and mudslides that have hit Cusco, the Sacred Valley and areas around Machu Picchu. Here is a short list of non-profit organizations that are working directly with the affected communities and can accept donations of money, clothing, food, etc. They may have needs for volunteers, but please contact them directly prior to heading out to these areas:
Living Heart Foundation – Ollantaytambo
www.livingheartperu.org/help.htm
The devastation to families living in adobe houses near the river has meant they they have lost everything…The most important thing is of course money. The main concern of Living Heart is also being able to maintain the help to the 400 mal nourished children in remote areas where we have maintained help during the past 3 years. Volunteers would need to speak Spanish and/or Quechua to be able to help out.
DESEA Foundation and Kusikawsay School
www.deseaperu.org
www.kusikawsay.org
DESEA work in various sustainable projects in the SV, and the Kusikawsay School building at a cultural centre in Taray (near Pisac, where the bridge washed out). was severely damaged by flooding and erosion – and they’re now appealing for additional support to help with the reconstruction.
Wayki Trek
www.waykitrek.net
A trekking agency owned and operated by local community members, Wayki have been bringing donations of food, water, clothing and other items to Anta and other remote villages in the SV.
Cusco Municipality
For those already in Cusco, the municipal government and other organizations have had collection points up in the Plaza de Armas for dropping off food, water and clothing.
SAE Clubhouse
– you can also bring your donations to the clubhouse and we will make sure to get them into the hands of one of the above organizations.
-> The lastest update will be available here
www.saexplorers.org/clubhouses/cusco
Latin Trails – tour operator in the Galapagos, receives Smart Voyager Certification for their luxury class catamaran the Galapagos Journey I.
The Smart Voyager program was initiated by the Ecuadorian citizen’s group, Conservación y Desarrollo in collaboration with their partner, Rainforest Alliance, to credit operations (mainly hotels and Galapagos tour boats) that meet a set of strict conservation standards. These standards expand the scope of what it means to truly be sustainable. Naturally, they include conservation efforts in things like waste management. But they also take into account a company’s policies on developing the local community, enhancing worker’s conditions, and maintaining high safety standards.
This being Latin Trails’ first boat to make the cut, the company sees this award as a great achievement, but certainly not the end of their commitment to environmental responsibility.
Many would say this is the final step in achieving an eco friendly operation. For Latin Trails and Galapagos Journey Fleet it is certainly not the beginning and for sure not the end. It has been a long process of continuous improvement in our environmental practices. – Latin Trails
For travelers, the Smart Voyager seal is a guarantee that your hard-earned dollar will benefit the local people and help protect local ecosystems. And in the Galapagos, where the impacts of tourism on such a fragile environment need to be in check, supporting Smart Voyager boats ensures the same Galapagos experience for the next generation of explorers.
Kudos Latin Trails!
We have just learned from partner Amazonas Explorer that the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC), the agency controlling the Inca Trail, has informed them that no one will be able to operate treks on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in March of this year due to the recent flooding.
INC will refund all permits purchased for trekking the Inca Trail in March. As Amazonas points out it will be possible to get to Machu Picchu via the road to Santa Teresa in March, and there are many other excellent trek options available such as the Salcantay or Lares Valley treks.
If you have your heart set on trekking the world famous Inca Trail, you better plan your trek for later in the year. Everything should be back to normal by April, and, as always, May is a wonderful month to trek the Inca Trail. It isn’t crowded, everything is green, and the temperatures are warmer than in August or September.
- Trekking in the Lares Valley
Ferrocarril Transandiono FETRASA is the company in charge of the railroad to Machu Picchu maintenance. They have sent a statement reiterating that they have started reconstruction of the railroad and time-lining progress:
1. The trans Hydroelectrica – Machu Picchu route is estimated to be open around the 17th or 18th of February (*)
2. The Piscacucho to Machu Picchu route is planned to run beginning March 21st.
3. The Ollantaytambo – Machu Picchu route is predicted to open on April 1st.
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Andean Adventures notes their alternative transport to the famous ruins. (Cusco – Ollantaytambo – Santa Maria – Santa Teresa – Hydroelectrica – Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu)***
- Cusco to Ollantaytambo: 81 km on paved road & Ollantaytambo to Santa Maria: 83 km on paved road/35 km on dirt road
Estimated Travel Time: 5-6 hours
- Santa Maria to Santa Teresa: 22.5 km on a narrow dirt road.
Estimated Travel Time: 1 hour
- Santa Teresa to Hidroelectrica: 19 km on dirt road
Estimated Travel Time: 40 min
- Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town):
Estimated Travel Time: 30 min
Nearest Towns With Hotel:
Quillabamba (2 Stars): 6 hours from Cusco and 2.5 hours from Hidroelectrica
Santa Teresa (small, basic hotel)
*** Please Note: Machu Picchu is inaccessible for the time being. However, a back entrance route is in the works and will hopefully be an option soon. This back route is laid out above.
