Detour's Travel Blog — Local Travel Tips, Info, Deals and News

Caño Island, Costa Rica, Temporarily Closed

by Greg Findley on February 24, 2012

Caño Island, Costa Rica

Caño Island, Costa Rica

News from partner Costa Rican Trails:

As of last week the Costa Rican government closed land access to Caño Island, off of the Osa Peninsula, for three months (until the end of May, 2012). This island is visited by all guests staying at Casa Corcovado, La Paloma Lodge, Marenco Lodge, and Aguila de Osa Lodge, among others.

While it will still be possible to snorkel and dive in the waters surrounding Caño Island, it will no longer be possible to go onto the island itself. The nice beach on Caño Island is where the lodges usually offer a picnic lunch.

With land access not available, the picnic lunch will be provided at Playa San Josecito, a scenic beach roughly half way between the various lodges and Corcovado National Park. This location offers another snorkeling opportunity and beautiful trails where capuchin monkeys and scarlet macaws are often seen.

Happy Birthday Charles Darwin!

by Greg Findley on February 13, 2012

Happy Birthday Charles Darwin!

From the Galapagos Conservancy:

Sunday, February 12th marks the 203rd birthday of Charles Darwin, famous for developing his theory of evolution following a visit to the Galapagos Islands aboard the HMS Beagle. His study of endemic plants and animals — and the variation in their physical traits from island to island — was the foundation for his theory on natural selection.

“In the struggle for survival, the fittest win out at the expense of their rivals because they succeed in adapting themselves best to their environment.”

- Charles Darwin

New Discovery: Galapagos Tortoise Breed Sequestered not Extinct

by Greg Findley on February 7, 2012

Recently Discovered - Galapagos Giant Tortoise Species Not Extinct

Chelonoidis elephantopus, a type of giant Galapagos tortoise that was thought to have become extinct over 150 years ago has been “found” in the genome of a similar species that currently lives in the Galapagos Islands.

First recorded in 1853 by Charles Darwin in his famous voyage of The Beagle, Chelonoidis elephantopus was never again seen by visitors or scientists in the Galapagos Islands. This species was believed to have been wiped out by the mid 1800’s by pirates and whalers who used these animals as a valuable source of food on their ships due to their tolerance of extreme conditions. A Galapagos tortoise can survive without food or water for up to a year, thus they were a highly prized food source by pirates and whalers who kept them alive on their ships without giving them any care. Giant Galapagos tortoises can reach almost 6 ft (1.8m) in length and weigh almost 900 lbs (408 kg).

Chelonoidis elephantopus was originally from Floreana Island, the second southernmost island in the Galapagos archipelago and the most frequented by pirates and whalers in the 1800’s. However, a study of the genome of over 1600 tortoises on Isabela Island (the largest island of the Galapagos Islands land formations and found 200 miles northwest of Floreana Island) revealed the presence of the DNA of Chelonoidis elephantopus on its very close relative, Chelonoidis becki.

The two species of Galapagos giant tortoises have shells of a different shape. The shells of C. becki are domed-shaped, whereas the shells of C. elephantopus on Floreana Island were saddle-shaped. Because in 2008 several members of C. becki were observed to have more saddle-shaped shells than dome-shaped, an investigation began to determine the cause of the difference in shell shapes. A DNA examination of these saddle-shaped variations revealed that they had to have had at least one parent which was a member of C. elephantopus.

Watch the Giant Saddled Backed Tortoise video:

The final study showed that their genes were significantly different from those of other Galapagos tortoises on the Island and although the issue is complicated (and scientists estimate that at least 38 tortoises in their study could be purebred members of C. elephantopus), the conclusion is that the species is not extinct. Thirty of the tortoises whose DNA contained DNA from C. elephantopus were found to be less than 15 years old. Given that the average lifespan of a Galapagos tortoise is 100 years, researchers say that there is a strong chance that their C. elephantopus parent is still alive on Isabela Island.

Additionally, since scientific findings suggest there may indeed be a few dozen descendants of this Galapagos Island breed still roaming the island, researchers are anxious to locate this group. The task now is to establish a realistic plan to discover their territory and catch these “hybrid tortoises” and incorporate them into the current breeding program or design a new one. This will involve an enormous effort as researchers look in plain sight among other tortoise herds and search for a population that has established its own secluded territory. This is an exciting opportunity for conservationist to learn more about C. elephantopus and possibly discover additional hybrid offspring.

To make matters more interesting, researchers are not sure how C. elephantopus tortoises ended up on Isabela Island, almost 200 miles away from Floreana. As opposed to sea turtles in the Galapagos Islands area, Galapagos tortoises are not good swimmers. Some scientists have posited that these tortoises originally arrived via the Humboldt Current from mainland South America. Based on this premise, there is the possibility that the population or even a single pregnant female “migrated” to Isabela Island as a passive passenger via prevailing currents. The generally accepted best guess is that pirates and whalers hauled them from one island to the other, or that they threw some overboard when passing close to Isabela Island.

A detailed recount of these findings is published in the journal Current Biology. http://www.cell.com/current-biology/

Additional resources:
http://news.yahoo.com/extinct-galapagos-tortoise-reappears-173106567.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galapagos_Giant_Tortoise
http://www.worldwildlife.org/what/wherewework/galapagos/WWFBinaryitem7725.pdf

GALAPAGOS FLIGHTS: Fuel Surcharges for 2012

by Allie Savage on December 27, 2011

Earlier this month, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced the end of government fuel subsidies for local airlines. The following fuel surcharges have been announced for Galapagos Flights starting January 1, 2012 (subject to change):

For flights with AeroGal Airlines the supplement will be $100 per person ($50 one-way). For TAME Airlines, there is a $120 per person ($60 one-way) surcharge coming/going from Guayaquil to the Galapagos and a $140 per person ($70 one-way) for flights coming/going to Quito. This fuel surcharge will be applied even to tickets that have already been paid for and/or issued when traveling on January 1 or thereafter (and will also apply to those returning from the Islands after January 1st).

For those whose tickets have already been issued please plan to pay this fee upon checking-in to your Galapagos flight. It is recommended that you pay this fee in cash to avoid any delays or issues at the ticketing counter.

Stand Up Paddling (SUP) on the Blackfoot River, MT

by Greg Findley on September 7, 2011

Blackfoot_River_SUP

Stand Up Paddling SUP on the Blackfoot River, MT

I first tried Stand Up Paddleboarding, or SUP, in February of this year when I paddled down the Shiripuno River to the Huaorani Ecolodge in Ecuador’s Amazon Basin, and then on a Galapagos Stand Up Paddle Multisport Adventure. SUP’ing was a great way to experience the Galapagos, and it added one more activity to an already full multisport itinerary, making the Galapagos Stand Up Paddle Multisport Adventure the most active and adventurous trip in the Galapagos Islands.

Since that trip I’ve been exploring SUP’ing here in Montana, and I’m pleased to say that even though we are far from the ocean this sport is awesome here as well. We are surrounded by beautiful lakes and rivers here in central Montana, and SUP’ing is the perfect way to explore our local waterways.

Before I tried SUP, I have to admit, I was a skeptic. It seemed like a manufactured sport, something created just to sell more gear, or just for surfers. It seemed silly, and it also looked like it was too hard to be practical for the average person. Then I tried it. Turns out I was wrong, and SUP is a great activity that almost anyone can do. It is getting lots of press because it is fun, and it is a very practical way to get out on the water.

Stand Up Paddleboarding is an activity that can be enjoyed anywhere there is water, whether on the ocean, in lakes, calm rivers, or even in whitewater rivers. It can be great exercise, and I’ve really come to prefer it to canoeing or kayaking on lakes and mellow rivers. On the SUP you stand up and can see your surroundings, and down into the water, better than from a canoe or kayak. The SUP is more comfortable to paddle, and the paddle doesn’t drip water on you with every stroke like in a kayak. There is a sense of freedom on a SUP that is hard to get in other watercraft.

My only complaint about SUP is that every time I take my board out so many people want to try it I don’t get much time on it! Everyone who has tried it loves it, and I can see why it is the fastest growing watersport in the world. It can be whatever you want it to be — surfing in the ocean, flat water racing, running rapids, working out, doing yoga, distance crusing, or just paddling around on a lake or river enjoying the view. Bottom line is that it is fun! So far my 4 year old son and my 78 year old mother have both tried it, and both like it!

This past weekend we took the family on the Blackfoot River near Missoula, MT, in our raft. We also took our NRS Big Earl inflatable SUP, and my wife and I traded off between the SUP and the raft. Our 4 year old rode on the SUP between the larger rapids. What a great way to get on a beautiful river, making for an awesome day! The water was low and we didn’t want to fall off the SUP onto rocks, so we knelt on the board in the bigger rapids, but in the smaller or deeper rapids, and in the flats between the rapids, we stood up and enjoyed the amazing scenery from the SUP.

I’m a convert. SUP is going to stay. Detour is looking at all sorts of new SUP trips and destinations in South America for 2012. Stay tuned for these cool new adventures!

SUP Stand Up Paddling the Blackfoot River, MT

SUP Stand Up Paddling the Blackfoot River, MT

Lessons from seven months in Peru, and the value of travel

by shannonhughes on August 1, 2011

I’ve been back in Montana for a month now, trying to figure out a new routine in a place I’m grateful to call home for its beauty, the chance to ride or hike for hours from my back door, and a great community of people that extends across an entire state. More importantly, I’m trying to integrate the lessons I learned about the value of living simply, focusing on the moment at hand, and the importance of new (and occasionally scary) experiences during my seven months in Peru. Clearly the most beneficial lesson I learned during my time in Peru wasn’t necessarily about any one place, it was about the value of travel and all it contributes to a life.
Traveling to new places, especially those outside a set comfort zone, is a perfect rapid fire learning event. From the moment the pressurized and polished jet lands on a runway in a place far, far from home in every sense of the word you’re jumping into new geography, new cultures, new language, and new perspectives with both feet. Hopefully, by the time you arrive you’ve managed to hit the hold button on work and other daily distractions so you can fully enjoy how ever long you have to be so far from the familiar. I’ll readily admit: there was definitely an adjustment period learning to live without all the amenities and conveniences of life in the United States when I first arrived in Peru. While you can certainly be guaranteed a hotel that offers the best in the majority of cities you’ll visit during your trip, standards are certainly different when it comes to restroom comfort in most public places…and it might take a while to get used to the relative chaos of Latin American traffic patterns. It also might take a while to get used to the herds of sheep and llamas grazing only a mile or so from the city center, or the breathtakingly beautiful peaks that are visible when the clouds part.
Another lesson I learned when I made an on the spot decision to buy my plane ticket was there is no better time than now. No, really – right now. It would be hard to deny that it can be difficult to find the time and money to make travel happen. It would be harder to deny the pace of the world changing is accelerating. Every day globalization and technology make it easier for us to be in touch with people in far flung corners of the world – it also makes it possible for new generations of ancient cultures to let go of the traditions that have defined their way of life for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. And then there’s the simple fact that ecosystems and landscapes are changing. I’m not saying to make vacation plans on ‘doom and gloom’ either; I’m just saying that if you want to see glaciers on mountain peaks a stone’s throw from the equator, you might want to book your trip to the Sacred Valley or the Cordillera Blanca sooner than later.
And, as I try to figure out my next steps career-wise and life-wise I need to remember the important lesson that more and more people seem to be catching on to all the time: regardless of how much I have in the bank, it’s not new possessions that will bring happiness, it’s the next new place I’ve never seen before, the next new mountain range waiting to be skiied or climbed, it’s the memories and the lessons that can’t be rivaled by any experience other than travel. Check out this NY Times article on consumer spending that does a great job of summarizing what’s become obvious to me: spend your money where your heart wants to be, and you’ll actually get some meaningful experiences in return

Days 7-10 of the Huayahuash Circuit: adventure complete…for now

by shannonhughes on July 29, 2011

After the soul shaking descent from San Antonio pass, a frigid night sleeping in a cow pasture, and a several hour lost backpack search, the rest of the trek was relatively easy. But, what really comes into focus is the simple fact that you don’t really want it to be easy; you’re in the most powerful looking landscape imaginable, having once-in-a-lifetime experiences on a daily basis, and it’s only fitting that you should be challenged. And so you will be. However, if you choose to go with a reputable guide through the Casa de Guias (“house of guides”)in Huaraz, you will be not face the sort of “where do you think the real trail is” moments that became increasingly frequent after we took a turn off the main circuit on day 6.
I really can’t recommend the Huayahuash Circuit enough in terms of being exposed to the full force of Peru’s beauty. Over 10 days you will almost always have a peak in excess of 18,000ft in your view, with blue ice glacier lurching forward, and magnificent waterfalls pounding down off of that. You will definitely be physically challenged by the climbs and altitude, but never to the point that you question whether it’s worth it; the inspiration of the surrounding landscape is enough to confirm that it is. You’ll also meet locals in the small villages you’ll come across that are incredibly kind – although they will almost certainly ask for some kind of user fee, even when it’s unclear exactly what services you’re receiving in exchange.
Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca are several hours from Cusco and the surrounding attractions (i.e. Machu Picchu) that bring legions of visitors to Peru each year – which clearly has its ups and downs. The downside is that it may not be possible to get over to these amazing mountains and take in the centuries-old Inca sites that have become renowned worldwide for their mysticism and endurance. The upside is that you will experience parts of Peru far removed from the tourist-centric restaurants, souvenir shops and persistent vendors. If you have enough time to make it to the Cordillera Blanca during your stay in Peru there are several shorter treks, including the popular Santa Cruz trek, that are equally beautiful and easier to access. If you don’t have enough time in one trip – well, you’ll just have to make a choice this time…and then start planning your return trip for the next go ‘round. The more time I spent in Peru the more certain I became that there more secret stashes of beauty and adventure than can be experienced in a lifetime, never mind one visit.

New Regulations for Huayna Picchu

by Allie Savage on July 28, 2011

Machu-Picchu

As of July 15th, the Peruvian government has started enforcing new rules for those wanting to climb Huayna Picchu (the big sugar loaf mountain behind Machu Picchu).

In addition to a limited number of permits available, you must now purchase your permits ahead of time. These permits can only be purchased through the government website www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in the Cusco office of the Direction Regional (which can be done by notifying your tour provider ahead of time). See new rules in blue below:

1: Entrance times are:
Group 1 (G1): 0700 – 0800
Group 2 (G2): 1000 – 1100

2: The max capacity per group is 200 people

3: Permits to climb Huayna Picchu can only be made through www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in the Cusco office of the Direction Regional of Cusco. They cannot be purchased on arrival in Machu Picchu nor in Aguas Calientes. Once sold out, that’s it. You can find availability at the website above.

4: The prices for entrances to Huayna Picchu are different to the standard entrance tickets to Machu Picchu whose price remains the same. It is not possible to swap standard entrance tickets to include Huayna Picchu.

5: Prices for Machu Picchu – Huayna Picchu – Moon Temple which come into effect as of 15th July (includes entrance to Machu Picchu) are Adults S/150. Students with Valid ISIC cards only S/75. Without entrance fee to Machu Picchu the climb is an additional $10.00 per person.

There are still great non-permitted hikes to do in and around Machu Picchu. Climb Machu Picchu Mountain for a truly impressive view of Machup Picchu, as he condors see it. Hike back along the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate (where those hiking the Inca Trail get their first look at Machu Picchu). Or, walk out to the Inca Bridge for even more amazing views.

No more last minute decisions to wake up early and beat the rush. If you plan to climb Huayna Picchu best to book early as permits are selling quickly.

Day 6 on the Huayahuash Circuit: a day of (mis)adventure

by shannonhughes on July 28, 2011

One really useful tip I can give you if you plan on doing any solo trekking in the Peruvian Andes is if anyone tells you that the trail you’ll be taking isn’t necessarily the most obvious or well-traveled path *STOP* and realize that means: you are going where nobody else wants to, and there’s a reason. This was the real life lesson of Day 6 on the Huayahuash Circuit…that, and ‘don’t get cocky just because things are going smooth so far’.
After a long soak in the hot springs on day 5 we were feeling well rested and relaxed to take on a day of trail that included crossing two 16,500ft mountain passes and a descent down the back of San Antonio mountain that was supposed to be, ahem, a ‘little off the beaten path….and a little scary’. The day started off nicely enough – brilliant sunshine reflecting off the 20,000ft glacial peaks surrounding us made it hard to even worry about the climbs ahead. Early in the day we followed a young Russian solo trekker who made the loose, steep trail seem like a stroll through a meadow and it seemed like once again we would be following guided groups, needing our fading map only for back up. In retrospect: oops.
The first climb was relatively easy, or at least relatively straight forward. After having to back track off a few cow grazing trails we mistook for our route we had a gradual climb to our first pass and basked in the sun for a few minutes, enjoying the stunning beauty that had somehow become almost expected. We didn’t stay at the pass long, knowing we had another big climb followed by a bigger descent waiting for us before we would be done for the day (understatement).
The climb to the second 16,500 ft pass was not so gradual and unfortunately was a straight shot up that was entirely visible from the approach. It was one of those climbs that somehow seems to lengthen as you plod along, the crest somehow moving away from you each time you lift your head to size it up.
When we reached the top I was exhausted, but I was also looking at the most amazing collection of peaks and glacial lakes I’ve ever seen; it was surreal. The peaks across from the pass seemed to fold in on each other and turquoise lakes thousands of feet above the valley floor collected on the crevasses. We sat at the summit of our climb along with an Israeli group and their guide for what seemed like a good long while taking it all in. When the group was about to descend back the way we had just climbed into the valley we wished them farewell…which seemed to take their guide by surprise. When we told him we were planning on descending the opposite side of the pass – a route that was essentially an uninterrupted loose scree pitch – he said a few things in Spanish we didn’t quite understand ( I can now assume they meant “what?! Why?! That’s certain death…”) before showing us the route with a few S-curve hand gestures and some cautionary words about going slow and making sure we knew where we were going. Seemed like no problem – we just had to take it easy on the first scree pitch and then hug the ravine on the left side. And it probably would have been no problem if we didn’t instead decide to follow a set of footprints leading off to the right, thinking that must be the better option. In retrospect: oops. Big oops.
Instead of getting easier to navigate the scree slope only got steeper and looser and those footprints had, of course, long disappeared. Being pulled down by the weight of our packs was no longer an inconvenience but a danger, so we devised a plan where my trekking partner would go ahead to find a passable route while I hefted the backpacks down one at a time. As we climbed further down under the sinking sun the drops became larger, and the route less certain. It seemed like no matter what direction we chose there was a good possibility of being cliffed out. Increasingly there seemed to be a good possibility of having zero luck finding a way off the mountain that night and having to spend a frigid night clinging to tufts of dried out grass on the rocky slope for safety. Not great. At one of the larger drops I realized it would be impossible for me to negotiate the down climb with two packs, so I tossed them down to my partner below. He snagged the strap on the first pack, but the second bounced past him and began a run away train trajectory of terminal velocity down the mountain and into a deep ravine. Watching that pack accelerate at warp speed down the steep slope that we would have to get down didn’t necessarily quell my fears or inspire confidence.
I’ll make this short: we barely made it off the mountain before darkness settled in earnest, but without that second pack. Fortunately, we were alive and uninjured. Unfortunately, that pack had our tent, Alex’s sleeping bag, our cook stove, and most of our food. With post trauma adrenaline racing through our systems we prepared to share one sleeping bag for a very long, very cold night of sleeping out in a cow pasture…thinking it may have been a better idea to follow that group back into the valley after all. In the morning I was awoken by the farmer who owned the land, and he kindly showed me that our actual path would have been to stay left the whole time, avoiding all the cliffs and our ‘adventure’. To sum it up: hire a professional guide for this trip, let the mules carry your gear up the long passes and down the loose descents, and avoid this type of situation. Fortunately, several hours of searching a very steep ravine did produce the pack that next morning – but consequences could easily have been far worse. Turns out, Peru’s landscape is wildly beautiful, and does an amazing job of keeping you humble.

Days 3,4, and 5: easy trail and gorgeous sights on the Huayahuash Circuit

by shannonhughes on July 28, 2011

In retrospect, days 3-5 could be called the ‘smooth sailing’ section of the Huayahuash Circuit trek. Not to say the trekking itself is especially easy- there are still plenty of ups and downs at high altitudes- but the trail is well-defined and (although never marked…ever) easy to follow. To firm up our confidence that our map was functional and our novice navigational skills in check, we would meet up with larger, guided groups each evening at camp. And we would have enough day light left in the equatorial days (sun up at 7, down at 6) to envy their cozy looking dining tents and the smell of their guide prepared meals waiting for them while we wrestled with a tangled tent and rain fly.
The ease of the trodden trail let my eyes and mind wander far and wide over the incredible sweeping views of the sky high peaks and abruptly carved glacial valleys, and I found an easy rhythm to hike for hours. Each day started cold and frosty while we made the standard breakfast of coffee and porridge, and instantly warmed to t-shirt weather when the sun finally made it over the last peak standing between us and its fiery rays. When camp was packed and our backpacks loaded on we would begin the steady walk that each day defied the last in the scope of the beauty we were seeing. On day 3 our trail alongside a turquoise glacial lake perfectly reflecting the peaks on the horizon took us to a crew of farmers digging potatoes from their freshly tilled soil. Inspired by a complete lack of enthusiasm for the giant bag of white rice (and if you spend more than a month or so in Peru you will also share a lack of enthusiasm for the ubiquitous white rice), we bought a kilo of the fresh red spuds for 2 soles. That trailside booty made 3 fantastic meals of gourmet camp cooking hodge podgery , and it was a nice reminder that we were hiking in a place where families could still subsist on their own labor – even when the landscape seemed so wild and harsh. Each day ended also roughly ended in the cold – as soon as the sun dipped behind the peaks the temperature noticeably dropped until we were wrapped in our sleeping bags trying to make out the few constellations we could recognize before surrendering to the relative warmth of the tent.
Day 5 wins hands down for providing the lush life experience. Our trail that day was an easy peasy 5 hours of walking on relatively flat terrain and lead to a campsite right next to a hot spring. Yes, a hot spring in the midst of some of the most amazing glacial peak scenery imaginable…and there’s even a smaller pool where you’re allowed to soap up and wash 5 days of trail grime off while your aching muscles unfurl. I can guarantee you that if you make this trek you will be absolutely lost on what you could otherwise be doing at that moment that could even rival the beauty of sitting in that hot water feeling so free and grateful. I can also guarantee that you will have a harder time than you imagine getting out of those hot pools after the temperature makes its nightly plunge. Remember to bring some warm clothes to bundle up in (and save that precious heat) for the walk back to your tent.
Yes, the good life was easy to come by on these days – Peru’s wild beauty had seemingly almost transformed into a backpacker’s resort and we were temporarily hoodwinked into thinking this would be a 10 day leisure cruise of a trek. And we were about to be humbled.

Day 1 of the Huayahuash Circuit in the big peaks of Peru

by shannonhughes on July 12, 2011

The morning of our departure for 10 days on the Huayahuash Circuit trail we woke up at the inhuman hour of 4AM to catch the 5AM bus out of Huaraz to Chiquian. It was rough, but there’s always something exciting about being up that early for an adventure, especially an adventure that would be so completely new to me. As we hefted on our fully loaded packs I got a clear idea of the challenge it would be to haul our stuff over mountain passes instead of hiring a mule team to carry it for us. I reassured myself by repeating the mantra “it’s only because it’s so early…” Right?
The bus ride was mostly in the dark so I missed out on some of the panoramic views of the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra (beautiful peaks, but without the enormous snow caps that make the Blanca so impressive), but was completely enthralled as soon as the first glimpses of the enormous big mountains came into view. These mountains are so unlike any others I’ve seen before; jagged towering peaks that look like each one was torn independently from the earth. My gratitude for being able to experience them replaced any left over exhaustion from the early start.
Our first stop was the village of Chiquian, a surprisingly bustling place with shop-lined streets and a large local market where you can buy any last minute provisions you might need. Unsure of when the next bus to the much smaller village of Llamac would be leaving we had to forego exploring what seems like a pretty cool little town. The Llamac bus was scheduled to leave at 8:30AM – giving us a 20 minute wait time. Of course, you can’t really expect 100% accuracy on departure time even 50% of the time in Peru so we ended up killing an extra hour in front of the bus station, making wagers on what time the bus would actually arrive.
An extra hour plus one flat tire later we were in Llamac, the self-proclaimed “Gateway to Huayahuash”, and got our first taste of the hodge podge fee system that has baffled many the traveler on the Huayahuash Circuit. Before the bus even gets to the town center a local fee collector boards the bus and charges any tourist 15 soles for the privilege of passing through the village. All said and done at the end of the 10 days we had paid something like 165 soles each of random fees for passing through various parts of the trail and through the occasional village. Be prepared for this and have small denominations of Peruvian soles with you – and be prepared for the fact that it seems completely random. Fee collectors literally seem to appear out of nowhere at times and the fee is almost never the same from place to place, but you should at least receive a semi-official looking ticket in return.
So, now all that was left was to begin the trail…and we began at mid-day with a steady climb of 3,000 or so feet that lasted at least a few hours. Yep, it’s a great way to stretch the legs after a long bus ride. Those first hours are challenging, but quickly become well worth it as you crest the ridge and get your first sweeping views of the glaciated mountains and turquoise glacial lakes on the horizon. For the next few hours you hike directly towards three sentinel peaks behind the lake, and they seem to change completely every time the trail curves slightly. I barely put my camera away for hours.
That night we watched an alpenglow sunset on the mountains as we set up our tent, and experienced the first rapid temperature drop that would clearly define the moments after sunset for the rest of the trip. It was hard to sleep that night surrounded by so much unknown beauty, knowing there was so much waiting for me in the next 9 days.

Off the beaten path in the high peaks of Peru: Huaraz

by shannonhughes on July 12, 2011

As almost every one of my posts has mentioned, repeatedly, Peru’s diversity of ecosystems and landscapes is beyond anything I ever imagined when planning my trip and was a constant source of amazement during my time there. To top off seven months of amazing experiences I spent the majority of my last two weeks in Peru checking out the mountaineer’s destination, Huaraz, and trekking the 10 day Huayahuash Circuit in the Cordillera Huayahuash.
Huaraz is the jumping off point for endless technical mountaineering and non-technical, but still challenging, trekking trips in Peru’s largest mountain range, the Cordillera Blanca, and the equally impressive nearby Cordillera Huayahuash. I was determined to get there from the first time I looked at a map of Peru and saw the long necklace of peaks that rival the Himalaya in altitude, located only a few hundred miles from the equator. Towers in the tropics. So, as June approached and work ended I booked a flight to Lima from Cusco (I couldn’t stomach the idea of a 21 hour bus ride that winds through the Andes on a route rumored to give the most seasoned traveler motion sickness). From there it’s a 7-8 hour bus ride to Huaraz with regularly scheduled departures on several bus lines. I took MovilTours for 50 soles and got a clean bus with a bathroom, reclineable seats and no discernible ‘bus falling apart’ noises: good enough! If I had paid a little more for the Cruz del Sur bus I would have had fully reclineable seats and wi-fi…for a longer trip I would definitely recommend going this route.
The route to Huaraz from Lima follows Peru’s almost moonscape desert and coastline, a strange mix of aquamarine waters and beachside snack shacks and miles of untouched dunes and black volcanic rock. In June a thick fog usually hugs the coast so I felt lucky to have views of the beaches I’ll have to visit next time around. A few hours into the ride we turned away from the ocean and began climbing into the mountains, and spent the remainder of the ride gaining altitude and gorgeous sunset views on surrounding rock faces.
We pulled into a dark Huaraz around 9PM, and I was surprised by how big of a town it is. Given its mountainous location I suppose I was imagining an alpine village of sorts; tall pines and small cottages. Nope; Huaraz is full of hustle and bustle and the streets are lined with concrete buildings built almost entirely after a massive earthquake leveled much of the town in 1970. So, with that in mind, be a little forgiving when evaluating Huaraz’s architectural aesthetic…she’s no beauty queen, but she’s got heart. From the bus station I took one of the readily available taxis to Jo’s Place, a hostel run by a husband and wife team (he’s from the UK, she’s from Huaraz) that has done a great job of attracting mountain enthusiasts from all over the world. Immediately upon check-in I could see that I would have no trouble meeting fellow travelers who could recommend good trekking options and/or suggest guides and gear companies – there were several people in the courtyard packing up for their adventures in the peaks and gear covering every free inch of space. I felt right at home, and stoked for an adventure.
Over coffee in the commons area kitchen the next morning I met a guy from Scotland who was also looking to do the 10 day Huayahuash Circuit; a well-known trail in the Cordillera Huayahuash that promised to give glimpses of just how wild, dynamic, and expansive this range is. And, as a bonus, he had already been in Huaraz for some time making good contacts with local guides and mountain enthusiasts we could get reliable information on doing a self-supported backpacking trip from. So, we decided to go for it and set out to get the maps, gear, and 10 days worth of food we would need to complete this mission…oh, and the ticket for the 5AM bus out of Huaraz to ultimately arrive in the (very) small mountain village of Llamac. Love those pre-sunset departure times!
We hit up the local market and bought the essentials: dehydrated soup mixes, quinoa, rice, salami, porridge, and of course instant coffee within an hour. As any backcountry roamer will tell you, trying to decide on several days of provisions for a wilderness trip can be stressful in the super market. At least in a colorful local market of stalls full of overflowing provisions it’s more of a ‘cultural experience’, and you can get everything you could possibly want in the quantity you want. I really can’t emphasize enough how nice that is when every ounce you pack will be hefted up over mountain passes that exceed in 16,000 feet.
Then, on to the gear and map store! If we were looking for a guided trip (which I would suggest…and I will clarify in subsequent posts) we could have headed over to the Casa de Guias (house of guides) to pick from a list of internationally certified trip leaders; a very helpful resource for last minute trips.
We photocopied a 1:45,000 topo map, rented a tent and cook stove and got some route finding advice from a French ex-pat now running a gear rental shop off the Plaza de Armas. We were told the route we were taking would be relatively straightforward…though some sections would be ‘off the beaten path’. Please note: if somebody tells you that you will be going off the beaten path in the mountains of Peru, be prepared for something more along the lines of ’so, is there really supposed to be a path here…?”. But, more on that later.
So, within 24 hours of arriving in Huaraz I had a trekking partner, all the gear and food I would need, and a determined route. Needless to say, I was impressed by the ease of showing up in a new place and finding adventure. If you’ll be traveling in Peru and really want to check out the high peaks I would definitely suggest making your way here for the endless trekking and mountaineering options and great opportunities to meet other people interested in the same type of adventures.

Espiritu Pampa Trek and Choquequirao to Machu Picchu Trek Featured in NY Times!

by Greg Findley on June 27, 2011

Ruins at Choquequirao

Ruins at Choquequirao

Two of our favorite treks in Peru, Choquequirao to Machu Picchu and Espiritu Pampa – Trek to the Last City of the Incas, operated by Detour partner Amazonas Explorer, were featured in The New York Times Travel section yesterday: “The Hidden Route to Machu Picchu.”

These are challenging, off the beaten path treks to visit some of the most amazing Inca ruins and scenery in Peru. The Choquequirao to Machu Piccchu Trek is a 10-day trek (13-day package available including time in Cusco) to some of the most incredible Inca ruins one can see. The 60 mile trek ascends and descends nearly 16,000 feet, so it is only for fit hikers. But it is worth it to experience a sense of discovery similar to that of famous explorer Hiram Bingham, famous for bringing Machu Picchu to the western world.

“Once . . . cleared, Choquequirao will be one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world,” according to Amazonas Explorer guide John Leivers in the article.

Times writer Mark Adams says that “walking through the partially excavated ruins, it occurred to me that a visit to Choquequirao was what a Machu Picchu excursion must have been like 50 years ago. Our chief muleteer, Juvenal Cobos, who had been to Machu Picchu on a school field trip in the 1950s, confirmed this.”

Amazonas Explorer’s trek goes from Choquequirao to other little-visited Inca ruins, and ends with a magnificent view and exploration of Machu Picchu itself.

Choquequirao to Machu Picchu: Trek the Hidden Route to Machu Picchu. The trip is offered as a 10-day trek / Machu Picchu visit only, or a 13-day complete package from Cusco to Cusco including hotels and services in Cusco. Fixed Departure Dates: 10-day Trek Only: September 12, 2011 – September 21, 2011: $1643.00 per person; 13 -day trips: July 10-22, 2011; October 23 – November 4, 2011: $1995.00 per person.

Private trips can operate on any date and the pricing is tiered so the price per person goes down as the number of travelers goes up.

This amazing trek connects the sister ruins of Choquequirao and Machu Picchu in an off-the-beten path route across some of the most amazing terrain, scenery, and ruins in South America. Experience Peru and “discover” Inca ruins much as Hiram Bingham did 100 years ago.

Way off the beaten track, Choquequirao, the “Cradle of Gold”, is an amazingly preserved Inca outpost, comparable in size to Machu Picchu and dramatically located on a promontory nearly 1,700 m above the roaring Apurimac River.

It is only accessible by a tough trek. Our nine-day mule supported hike to Choquequirao and beyond takes in high passes, perfectly preserved Inca Trails and awesome Andean peaks, ending with a spectacular and rarely seen view of Machu Picchu and a full guided tour of these incredible ruins.

This is a long, spectacular and strenuous hike crossing the entire Vilcabamba mountain range from the Apurimac to the Urubamba watershed. It is approximately 100 km (60 miles) long with almost 5,000 m of both ascent and descent with passes up to 4,600 m and river crossings as low as 1,450 m.

This is your chance to be amongst one of the few adventurers to visit this incredible site and complete this rewarding trek to Machu Picchu. We end in Cusco with an extra day to relax and explore this amazing city.

Abbreviated Itinerary
DAY 1: Cusco (briefing only on 10-day trip as trip starts on Day 2)
DAY 2: Cusco – Limatambo – Sahuite – Cachora
DAY 3: Cachora – Apurimac – Santa Rosa
DAY 4: Arrive Choquequirao
DAY 5: Explore Choquequirao
DAY 6: Choquequirao – Maizal
DAY 7: Maizal – Yanama
DAY 8: Yanama – Totora
DAY 9: Totora – Lucmabamba
DAY 10: Lucmabamba- Llactapata – Train to Machu Picchu
DAY 11: Machu Picchu – Return to Cusco (end of 10-day trek)
DAY 12: Cusco
DAY 13: Cusco & Home

Espiritu Pampa is generally regarded as Vilcabamba, the Lost City of the Incas. Espiritu Pampa is hidden in the jungle and is now known as the last holdout of the Incas in their battle with the Spanish. This remote site is visited by fewer than 250 tourists a year. It is a challenging jungle exploration trek for the person who wants to re-discover Inca history for themselves.

Espiritu Pampa: 12 -day trips begin and end in Cusco. The trip is available any date for a private group with a minimum of 3 travelers, or there are fixed departure August 14, 2011 and October 30, 2011. Price is $2403 per person, based on double occupancy for the fixed departure trips, and private trips have tiered pricing, with the price per person dropping as the group size goes up.

Trek to the Lost City of the Incas, Espiritu Pampa!

This truly amazing trek takes us below and beyond the Machu Picchu so well known to a rarely visited place – Espiritu Pampa – the definitive final outpost of the Inca Empire. Following an in depth exploration of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, we visit the fabled Machu Picchu before heading further into the jungle by train and vehicle to the start of our trek into the Vilcabamba region.

Following the footsteps of the Incas, we retrace their final journey into the jungle to their recently cleared final hiding place – Espiritu Pampa. This rewarding low altitude trek offers the seasoned traveler a chance to truly experience a spectacular journey, one that is rarely undertaken. In 2008, less than 250 people visited this site – This is jungle exploration at its very best!

Abbreviated Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Cusco and acclimatization / orientation tour of Cusco
Day 2: Hiking and guided tour to the local Inca ruins around Cusco
Day 3: Sacred Valley tour and late Pm train to Machu Picchu
Day 4: Private guided tour of Machu Picchu, transfer to Huancacalle
Day 5: Explore the Inca ruins of Vitcos and the famous “White rock”
Day 6: Start hike toward Espiritu Pampa
Day 7: Hiking the Concebidayoc valley
Day 8: Arrive at Espiritu Pampa – the last city of the Incas
Day 9: Full day exploration of Espiritu Pampa
Day 10: Hike out to road head and drive to Quillabamba
Day 11: Drive to Cusco
Day 12: Transfer to airport and fly home or join an Excellent Extension

Peru Trekking: Goods for the Locals

by Allie Savage on June 8, 2011

On many Peru treks you’ll be camping in communities and passing locals along the way. If you’re feeling like you want to bring something to give/trade here is a list of needed goods from a charity school near the Choquequirao Trek (provided by Amazonas Explorer).

THINGS TO BRING

Food: Fresh fruit, dry fruit, nuts & bread

Classrooms: Puzzles, white A4 paper, pencil cases, exercise books, rulers, pencils, pens, crayons, erasers, folders and plastic sleeves, toys for kindergarten, white board markers and white board erasers, felt markers, coloured chalks.

Sport equipment: Any type of balls, nets, bats, sports shoes, uniforms.

Art and craft: Glue, scissors, coloured (matt and glossy) cardboard of all sizes, tissue, crepe and cellophane paper, glitter, play dough, balloons, streamers, stickers, artist brushes, water paints, acrylic paints, masking tape, craft paper.

Music and drama: Any musical instruments, puppets, dress-up clothes.

Library: Spanish and/or English dictionaries, very basic children’s English books, children’s Spanish books, encyclopaedias (preferably in Spanish).

Computer room: Functional laptops, printers, colour and black ink, A4 paper.

Hygiene: Hand towels, liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste and tooth brushes (adult and children’s sizes), moisturiser, Sorbelene cream.

Health: Deep heat, topical antibiotic creams, general antibiotics, paracetemol for children and adults, multi-vitamins, anti-parasite medication, wart cream, antiseptic cream, quartazone cream, vaginal infection creams and antibiotics, ear and eye drops for infection. Band aids, bandages of all kinds, eye cleansers, thermometers, microscope, equipment to perform pap smears, eye and height charts.

For afternoon classes with the adults: Knitting yarn, cotton yarn, knitting needles of all sizes, crochet needles, pottery supplies, beads that can be used in jewellery making (especially wooden and ceramic beads), any type of cloth, sewing machines.

For the community: Any type of clothing for babies, children and adults; shoes, underwear, socks and stockings, hats, sunglasses, old reading glasses, kitchen utensils, pots, pans.

For construction: Any hand-held power tools.

Trip Report: Lares Valley Trek (Day 1)

by Allie Savage on June 8, 2011

Lares Valley Trek (Day 1)

Road to Lares

Road to Lares

3:40 am – Pick up from my hotel. This dead of night departure is not the norm, but a construction project on the road to Lares mandated it. Original pick-up was scheduled for the much more sane 8 o’clock hour. Unfortunately, most of our drive through the Sacred Valley was in the dark. On the bright side, the inordinate wake up time did add to the overall sense of adventure we were embarking on.

Most of what I remember of the 2.5-hour drive, bouncing in and out of REM sleep, was on a decently paved road. The last forty-five minutes we climbed higher into mountainous terrain. The road turned to gravel, our pace slowed, and despite my best efforts sleep was just not possible.

Breakfast Stop

By sunrise we were nearing our start and we pulled off the side of the road for a proper breakfast – Café, tea, Milo, fruit, crackers, cheese, ham, toast and jam – sitting ourselves in a section of sun to warm up. The landscape was so vast that it took our guide, John, pointing out the herd of alpacas off in the distance and those two blue specs that were children probably running to school and the smoking stone hut from which they come from. The Andean bustle of life.

As we enjoyed our last cups of Coca tea we loaded back into the van for the final haul to the start of our trek…

Allowing enough time for full acclimatization is crucial to the enjoyment of any hike. The Lares Valley Trek, while considered moderate compared to other treks in the area, does boast of a couple 4000+ meters (> 13,000 ft) passes. My trekmates had come from sea level and only just arrived in Cusco the afternoon before. So today was all about acclimatization.

Start of Lares Trek

Start of Lares Trek

We started off a steady uphill path and slowly made our way to the small village of Quisuarani, stopping along the way to let the local sheep herders pass and, often, just to catch our breath. The trail crosses the road on several occasions. And so van support is an option this first day for those that are really struggling. But as our guide said, just find your rhythm, don’t push yourself, and slowly, steadily you’ll get there.

Futbol Field in Quisuarani

Futbol Field in Quisuarani

We reached our campsite – the futbol field of Quisuarani – at approximately 12:30 pm, where the women of the Quechua community and their weavings greeted us. We had worked up an appetite and had lunch (some chicken and vegetables) before setting up camp. With our bellies full and the warmth of mid-day sun we all retreated to our tents for a much needed siesta.

Hike to Waterfalls

Hike to Waterfalls

En Route to Falls - Check out the lighting!

En Route to Falls - Check out the lighting!

We passed the rest of our afternoon with a hike to a nearby waterfall; and, for me, the full weight of just where we were set in. As we labored uphill, women adorned in monteras (traditional hats) and brightly colored lliclla’s (hand-woven shawls) trotted passed us with child on back spinning yarn for their weavings. The men of the community carried the makings of power lines for a future hydroelectric project to get power from the falls. And little kids hustled their way home from a full day of school.

I knew the Lares Valley Trek offered an authentic Peruvian experience, but I still wasn’t quite prepared to see these well-established communities with people living off the land amidst such a stark and stunning landscape. Everything was so grand and spread out that you could take in the whole scene from afar or rather from above as you hiked down into these ancient communities.

Kids in Camp

Kids in Camp

We returned to camp where a group of local boys were playing futbol with a beat-up old deflated ball. We joined them for a competitive game of monkey in the middle. Let me say being in the middle when you are not from altitude was ridiculously tiring. The kids loved this and I swear they had it out for me! For those that want to bring something to share with the communities, I think a soccer ball would be a great gift**. I would talk to your guide about whom in the community to give it to so that all can share. Each of the communities we passed through had a futbol field.

Our game fizzled out with the setting of the sun and our campsite cleared of all the local kids as they made their way back home. Dinner was served not long after – fish and rice with a peach dessert. We lingered in the warmth of the dinner tent sipping hot cocoa, but most of us were pretty pooped from the early morning start. We filled up our water bottles, paid a visit to the toilet tent, and were in bed by 7:30 pm.

** You will get ample amounts of snacks to carry with you as you hike during the day. You’ll find many kids running up for candy and whatever treats you’re willing to part with. We strongly suggest avoiding giving candy. They don’t have the same dental care we do. Fresh fruit or nuts would be much better.

Day 3 of the Choquequirao Trek

by shannonhughes on May 31, 2011

Needless to say, we woke up on the morning after our huge day of climbing to and descending from Choquequirao a little behind the eight ball in terms of energy and motivation. Once again we listened to the group next to us awake before dawn for the climb out of the canyon and back to Cachora, and managed to stay motionless for another few hours contemplating the day ahead and how it would feel on our ragged legs.
Since we did the out and back version of this trek (there is a 10-day version that takes you all the way from Cachora to Machu Picchu), there’s not much new to say about the trail out. Except, of course, that this time you’re climbing up, up, up instead of trudging down, down, down. We realized early in our climb that the trail is fully exposed to the sun (we were fortunate to have cloud cover on our hike up to Choquequirao the day before), and that the Andean sun amplified by canyon walls is, to say the least, intense. If I were to do this again I would definitely muster up the motivation to get up and out of camp way earlier than our 8:30am departure. And, still be prepared with plenty of water, sun screen, and a wide-brimmed hat to protect yourself from sun burn or possible sun stroke. Insect repellent should also be kept handy during your entire trek; although it doesn’t seem to completely deter the sand flies towards the river bottom there are actually several spots with mosquitos where it will come in handy.
It was a task to climb the seemingly endless switchbacks back up to Mirador to Capuliyoc – and I’ve never been so glad to see a stone bench in my life. Just before the lookout point that marks the beginning of more mellow trail we were lucky to see three massive Andean Condors floating upward on the thermals directly above us until they were soaring high above the canyon rim. We also watched a falcon surfing the opposing air currents, staying perfectly still in one spot in the sky as he searched for possible prey below.
After a long, well-deserved rest at the lookout we began our walk along the road back towards Cachora. After our days of steep trail the smooth terrain felt like a gift and I tried lengthening my stride to loosen up my tight quads and calves. About an hour later the trail drops off the road to the left and we had another hour of rolling up and downs before crossing the bridge and getting back to the road in Cachora. My final thought on why you should do this as part of a guided tour is that most likely this is where your transportation will meet you to drive you back up the hill into the village or back to your hotel in Cusco or elsewhere. It’s a cruel blow when you feel like you’ve spent every ounce of energy you have only to realize you have another 40 minutes of uphill or say to reach the hostels and shops in the main square.
We took a room in the first hostel we came across, a very basic place that had all the amenities I was looking for: a bed and a shower that was at least warm (hot would have been nice, but I was willing to compromise in order to get the dust and sweat off). We asked the hostel owner about a restaurant, and he told us he would call the couple who ran a small guesthouse and restaurant up the street and ask them to prepare two meals. So, an hour or so later we were walking up another steep dirt road in Cachora, guided by a local worker who eats at the restaurant every night and his head lamp. Our meal was basic -a fried rice type plate with an egg on it- but we gratefully polished it off and returned to our room in the hostel to enjoy the sleep of the dead until our 5am wake up time to catch the local taxis that take people up to the main road at 6am.
We ended up in a Toyota Corolla with 9 people wedged in for the 45 minute drive up the winding dirt road to where we could catch a bus back to Cusco alongside the main road. This time we had no problem flagging down a bus and arrived in Cusco without any problem around 11 – just in time to take a long and very necessary nap as soon as we got back to my apartment.
To summarize, I would say that Choquequirao is definitely one of the more amazing sites you could see during your trip to Peru. The trek is difficult, but if you use a guide who knows the best way to go and has horsemen to carry your gear you should be fine – just try to get your legs ready before you leave for Peru.
Of all the things I’ve done during my time here this was probably the most physically challenging, but I will also remember it as one of the most amazing.

Day 2 of the Choquequirao Trek

by shannonhughes on May 31, 2011

When the only other group camping at Playa Rosalina woke up way before dawn to begin the climb to Choquequirao we had a good indication that this was going to be a big day…and that certainly turned out to be an understatement. Unfortunately for us, neither my friend nor I could muster that same pre-sunrise ‘up and at ‘em’ motivation. We had 2 rounds of coffee in our system before we broke down camp and crossed the bridge across the Apurimac at 8AM or so. You should treasure that moment on the bridge, because it’s pretty much the only flat spot on your trail this day.
The switchback climb away from the river starts abruptly after the bridge and begins a somewhat brutal ascent directly back to, and above, the same altitude you descended from the day before. Fortunately, we decided to return to the same campsite that evening and were able to leave the bulk of our stuff behind, my friend carrying only a day pack with our food and water. As the climb continues without mercy I found myself once again amazed by the Incas’ ingenuity and perseverance. In order to seek sanctuary they built a city literally perched on cliff-like mountain sides that could only be reached with incredible effort. But, then again, given the speed that the local horsemen and camp workers motor up the trail apparently the human body can get used to this sort of undertaking – but probably not this one any time soon.
As we climbed we once again gained those lofty birds eye views of the peaks above and the river below, and passed through the various levels of vegetation. We also passed the Santa Rosa established campsite that would have been a great place to stay if we could have convinced ourselves to climb an hour or so of switchbacks after our descent the day before. The air up there is cooler, and the views are pretty amazing. You’re also that much closer on the morning you wake up to explore Choquequirao.
I won’t go on and on about the trail; I’ll just say it’s a solid climb and worth some time hiking your local hills or at least doing stair laps to prepare your quads, glutes, and calf muscles.
The ascent does mellow a bit as you approach the ridge and have your first views of the amazing Inca city. The lower section is literally carved in to a cliff; I can’t even imagine how they began building those first walls with such a steep drop off behind them. Again, it’s another reminder that the Inca probably did not have the same apprehension about heights that I do. Higher up on the ridge you can see the beginnings of the main plaza section of the city nestled in to lush vegetation. After paying a fee of 37 soles at the archaeological park entrance you have about another `1 ½ hours of up and down trail to the site, and you certainly won’t be disappointed when you arrive.
Choquequirao was built with the same architectural principals as Machu Picchu and certainly rivals the world famous site in beauty. To enter the main plaza area you walk along gorgeous terraces and flawless stone walls until you reach the flat area the Inca cleared for their homes and public meeting space. The views from here are indescribably beautiful: 360 degrees of mountain peaks plunging down to the aquamarine ribbon of river below. After a long day of sweaty hiking the cool mountain breezes also feel amazing. We ate lunch on the high plateau above the main plaza and tried to decide where and to what extent we could explore this incredible place in the limited time we had.
There are several sections of Choquequirao you can explore, and I would suggest that to do it properly you should camp at one of the sites within the park’s boundary or along the ridge as you exit, and give yourself an entire day at this site. Again, most guided tours do this trek in 4 or 5 days, making this a possibility for passengers. Although we didn’t have time explore the entire site, what we did see was truly amazing and makes the challenging trail entirely worth it. The other upside to the challenging terrain is the lack of crowds. You literally have this place almost to yourself, making it feel more like an authentic mountain sanctuary; the Inca’s last retreat essentially.
We ended up negotiating the last couple of hours of switchbacks back down to the campsite under a brilliant sunset followed by a star-filled sky. Although we were physically spent when we reached our campsite the beauty of the ancient Inca city and the surrounding mountains were definitely what stuck with us as we passed out in our tent that night.

Day 1 of the Choquequirao Trek

by shannonhughes on May 31, 2011

Technically, Day 1 of my Choquequirao experience was the entire day my friend and I spent negotiating the local bus/taxi connections in order to get to the village of Cachora and the trailhead for Choquequirao that leads out of it. Since Cachora is such a tiny town, located 40 or so minutes by car from the main road, there are no buses that actually take you directly there. So, on the morning of our departure from Cusco we purchased bus tickets to Apamayo and let the driver know we would need to get off at the start of the road to Cachora. He indicated that would be no problem – but somehow 4 hours or so later we were pulling into the Apamayo bus station without any indication that we had passed our turn off an hour ago. So, we ended up finding a taxi that was willing to drive us directly to Cachora for 40 soles, and spent another hour and a half driving on the same winding mountain roads and then down a long and winding dirt road to the tiny town that marks the beginning of the trek to the Inca city cradled deep in a mountain ridge high above the Apurimac River. We got to our destination a few hours past our intended arrival with one clear lesson learned, and one recommendation: there are several reasons to do this trek with a reputable tour operator, the first one being private transportation directly to the trailhead…
We wanted to make at least some progress that day, even though the sun was hanging low over the beautiful snow-covered peaks that dominated the horizon. The trailhead is easy to find from the main square of Cachora: just follow the main street down the hill, past fields of corn and towards the stunning vista ahead for a half hour or so until you get to a bridge across the river and a sign clearly indicating that this is your path to Choquequirao. We walked for two hours or so that day until the sun began to disappear and we set up our tent alongside the smooth dirt road on one of the only semi-flat spots we could find – which basically meant the hill wasn’t too steep. Although we spent the night fighting a slow slide to the bottom of the tent we did wake up to amazingly beautiful views of the snow peaks shrouded in clouds directly in front of us.
And from here is where the true trekking begins. The first hour or so our morning’s walk was again on that road that was flat, smooth and had me thinking that maybe all the rumors of quad and calf muscle punishment were fiction. We were able to take in the incredible views on this leisurely stroll until the prominent lookout point at Mirador de Capuliyoc, where we had stunning panoramic views of the mountains surrounding us, the deep river canyon below us…and the steep switchbacked trail that would take us between the two points with hours of downhill hiking. Here is where my second reason for taking a professional guided tour comes in: let a mule team carry your stuff and use trekking poles if you have knee or hip problems. My friend was definitely carrying the bulk our stuff in his large pack, but even with my small pack I finished the day’s downhill feeling like my knees were going to buckle and my toes seemed like they were on the verge of busting through the front of my hiking boot.
The shining light in all of this hard walking is some of the most beautiful scenery you can imagine: Peru at its best. Your trail takes you from the lofty canyon rim with straight across views to the snow fields on the opposing peaks, through tall alpine grasses, into Dr. Seuss-like yucca and cacti, and finally down to the roaring Apurimac River. The sharp topography of the mountains and sheer drop offs are amazing.
We took full advantage of the river to cool off and wash the sweat and dirt off and decided to camp at the small riverside established camping area at Playa Rosalina with its papaya grove and free range roosters. There are bathrooms, cold showers, and basic rooms also available here. Perhaps most importantly, there is also beer and water for sale. Reason number three to do this with a guide and mule team? In order to have enough water for the trek you either need to carry it all in, take the time to boil it or treat it with iodine, or buy a 2 liter bottle for 4 times the price you would pay elsewhere. After having to drink warm water that had recently been boiled a few times in the Andean sun I was happy to pay 10 soles for a bottle of water.
The sun set that night around 6, and I think it would be stretching it if I said I stayed awake until 7; amazed and exhausted by the beauty and challenge of the day’s trail.

3-day Apurimac River trip; amazing fun!

by shannonhughes on May 30, 2011

I have wanted to get on the Rio Apurimac since reading about the non-stop Class III-V rapids in a gorgeous river that runs through an amazing canyon, so I was more than stoked when I secured a spot for myself and a friend on Amazonas Explorer’s 3-day trip May 15th-16th.
The first thing that impressed me about Amazonas was their obvious attention to passenger’s safety and the quality of their gear. I’ve heard some scary stories about cut-rate companies taking groups of up to 20 down this mighty river in shoddy rafts with unexperienced guides without regard to the passengers’ comfort levels or previous experience on whitewater. Paul from Amazonas gave us a detailed description of just how big and strong the river is and asked us about our experience swimming and whether we had been rafting on a river of the same caliber. My kayaker friend got an even more extensive review of his experience and skill level before they agreed to let him paddle the river. None of this was meant to deter us; but it did give a clear idea of what the 3 days would be like and that we would be in good hands.
The night before our departure we had a detailed safety briefing from our guide, and no question was left unanswered. We left the briefing ready for an amazing trip that would be rapid-fire action on the river and a little bit of plush living when we got to camp at night.
The next morning we were picked up at 7:30AM for a five-hour drive through gorgeous (and occasionally burly mountain roads). Along the way we got to know our guide, Alan, and the other passengers. We also stopped for a snack at a beautiful road-side waterfall – not a bad road trip break!
When we got to the put in a delicious lunch of quiche and salad was waiting for us; our first sign that good food was going to be a priority on this trip. We had another briefing on the gear, met the gear boaters and our safety kayaker, and got all suited up in our wet suits, life jackets, and helmets for our first day on the river.
Our first day was shorter, but still awesome. Alan did a great job of making us practice how to handle every situation that could arise on the river. We went through the paddle commands, what to do when if the raft hit a rock (high side!), and even practiced flipping. It was thorough, and made me feel secure about the days of big whitewater ahead. That night we camped on a gorgeous sandy beach and relaxed while our guides prepared an amazing meal and took care of pretty much everything. Their hard work allowed all of us to get to know each other and to trade stories about our adventures in Peru…when we weren’t too busy watching the sun set or the almost full moon rise over the canyon walls.
The second day was full-on, full-time…and probably one of the more fun days I’ve had during my seven months in Peru! We started with a full gourmet breakfast courtesy of our guides who had been up since dawn getting things ready. Another big thank you to Alan, Juanito, Cali, and Efrain for your hard work! We started with walking around a rapid that was too big for us to run while our guides dealt with all the gear and boats. But, as soon as we got in the boat the action started and went all day. We navigated Class III, IV and two Class V rapids – paddling hard and laughing with excitement when the waves weren’t splashing in our faces. We got through all the fast action excitement safe and sound, with huge smiles on our faces. We also traveled through deep, gorgeous canyon walls full of lush vegetation and flowers, and watched birds soar on the thermals above and dive back and forth. When we finished that night we were all exhilarated and exhausted. Our guides once again took care of all the heavy lifting as we enjoyed some well deserved beers and delicious food under the moonlight.
The next morning I think we were all a little disappointed that our time on the river was almost at an end – but not before a few more big rapids! Our river trip finished with 2 Class V rapids…but of course it was all smooth because we were all pros by then.
As we packed up the gear and loaded up in the van I was sad to say good-bye to new friends and such a beautiful place, and was already looking forward to exploring other rivers in Peru sometime in the future. Whether you’re a seasoned rafter or a newbie, you will definitely enjoy this trip if you go with a reputable tour operator…and get ready for some big water!

Hiking in the Colca Canyon

by shannonhughes on May 30, 2011

As smooth and inviting as the elegant city of Arequipa is, I couldn’t resist the nagging urge to get out of the urban chaos and check out what lies beyond the bordering peaks: massive stretches of desert leading up to the Colca Canyon, the world’s second deepest. (Actually, if you keep going you will in fact get to THE deepest, the Cotahuasi Canyon. The Colca drops 4,160 meters, a depth made more dramatic by the snow-capped peaks towering above its rim.
The 15 sole local bus that leaves Arequipa several times daily follows a route that takes you right up to a front row view of the local volcanoes before passing in to an arid section of desert and then climbing sharply into the mountains. We choose to go directly to Cabanaconde, the tiny town that marks the end of the bus route, and takes anywhere between 6 to 8 hours depending on the number of stops (planned and unplanned) made along the way. If you visit the Colca Canyon as part of an organized tour you will have at least semi-private transport, saving yourself hours and undoubtedly traveling in greater comfort.
Knowing we would arrive in Cabanaconde with limited accommodations in the evening, we booked a room at the Hostal de Valle del Fuego prior to arriving and were greeted at the bus stop in the town’s colonial-style main square by the hostel’s cheerful owner, Joaquim – who really had to hustle given that he was also in the middle of preparing dinner in the hostel’s sister restaurant for several other tourists. We skipped dinner, but got some great information from him on the hike directly from Cabanaconde down to the Canyon’s bottom where several families have created Garden of Eden style campgrounds and bungalows in the lush spot appropriately named “Oasis”.
In the morning we woke up to stunningly beautiful views in every direction. Here on the canyon rim the foliage was still lush green and full of colorful blossoms, and the jagged snow-covered mountains stood in stark relief above long stretches of Inca agricultural terraces. From the straight-across view it was difficult to believe a miles deep canyon dropped off somewhere in between. We went to the hostel’s restaurant for a very bountiful breakfast that was included in the 50 sole cost of our room. We also got some pretty straight forward directions for finding the trail down to the canyon’s bottom: “Follow the main street out of town until it turns to a trail, and then keep going. Always stay on the large trail, you’ll have “problems” if you choose one of the smaller trails.” Easy enough.
The trail starts out as a wide road for locals and their livestock, but already provides amazing panoramic views of the peaks and the incredible variety of plant life and flowers that flourish in this area. When it narrows and approaches the canyon rim we came to a view of the sheer terra cotta colored canyon walls for miles that was unlike anything I’ve ever seen; and with every few meters of trail the view would seem to change entirely.
Once you begin descending into the canyon the trail is a bit nasty: loose fist-sized rocks and larger, slicker rocks covered in fine sand are the norm. And, as you would expect of a trail that drops that far in what’s estimated to be a 2 hour walk, it’s pretty steep. If I were to do it over again I would take trekking poles to give my knees a break, but as long as you take it slow you should be fine.
About half-way down the trail we stopped to take a break at the one constructed shade shelter (stone bench with a thatch roof, and were greeted with an unexpected bonus: a giant Andean condor soaring towards us, floating on thermals. Although I’ve read about how large and powerful they are I was amazed to see the full stretch of its wingspan as it passed directly below our eye level. Later in the day we saw a few more soaring far above, but the close-up view was by far the highlight.
Our destination came into view as a steady rain began to fall (yes, rare). Oasis is exactly what it sounds like, a strip of fertile land cascading lush vegetation in every shade of green imaginable down to the river bottom a hundred meters or so below. There are at least 3 or 4 individual camp sites advertised along the way, so know which one you want to go to before you set out on the hike down (if you’re part of an organized tour the arrangements will already be made for you). The one we stayed at was called simply “Oasis bungalows and camping” . After your grueling hike down the lush garden terraces, small pools, and sleepy bungalows are a sight for sore eyes. Following the appropriate recovery time during which you’ll want to slump listlessly against a chair and chug the first cold beverage that comes your way it’s amazing to explore the variety of gorgeous plants that surround you.
We were given basic but tasty meals and slept well in our bungalow (yes, they have real beds), but decided to forego the pools given that it a rare cool and rainy evening in this desert canyon.
The next morning the sun was blazing again and we had great views of the multi-colored canyon walls stretching up to the peaks for our hike out. We took the same route out, a non-stop uphill beater that takes 3-4 hours. It’s hard to complain, though, you’re surrounded by a landscape unlike any other on the planet, and you realize the locals who live in Oasis do this several times a week…in less than half the time.
If your trip to Peru allows time to visit this corner of the country I highly suggest checking out the Colca Canyon and meeting the incredibly friendly people who live in the villages along its rim.

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